The famous 4.000m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Gressoney Valley)

The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 4.000 meters peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the Dente del Gigante, Grandes Jorasses, Breithorn, Roc, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Lyskamm.

 

La Valle d'Aosta è una delle regioni italiane più conosciute nel mondo per suoi grandi Massicci Alpini, Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e Gran Paradiso. Ma ci sono anche altre moltissime vette famose di oltre 4.000 metri tra le quali si ricordano il Dente del Gigante, Les Grandes Jorasses, il Breithorn, il Castore, il Polluce, l'Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, il Roc, la Dent d'Hérens e i Lyskamm.

Gressoney Valley (Monte Rosa)

CASTORE / CASTOR 4.228m

First ascent: William Mathews, F. W. Jacomb, Michel and J. B. Croz, (Aug 23th, 1861).

Difficulty: F+.

Difference in height: About 1.560m from Bettaforca Pass.

Refuge: Rifugio Quintino Sella (3.585m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.

Ascent time: 9,00-10,00 hours.

Descent: Along the ascent route.

Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

 

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LYSKAMM ORIENTALE 4.527m

First ascent: W. E. Hall, J. F. Hardy, J. A. Hudson and company, (Aug 19th, 1861).

Difficulty: PD-/AD-.

Difference in height: About 1.030m from Rifugio Città di Mantova.

Refuge: Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3.647m). Places when open: 250. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Città di Mantova (3.500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places.

Ascent time: 5,00-5,30 hours.

Descent: Along the ascent route.

Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

 

 

LYSKAMM OCCIDENTALE 4.481m

First ascent: Edward N. Buxton, Leslie Stephen, Jakob Andereg and Franz Biner, (Aug 16th, 1864).

Difficulty: PD.

Difference in height: About 900m from Ref. Quintino Sella.

Refuge: Rifugio Quintino Sella (3.585m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.

Ascent time: 4,00-4,30 hours.

Descent: Along the ascent route.

Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

 

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CORNO NERO / SCHWARZHORN 4.322m

First ascent: William M. Conway and companions.

Difficulty: PD.

Difference in height: About 675m from Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3.647m).

Refuge: Rifugio Città di Mantova (3.500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3.647m). Places when open: 250. Winter hut: 15 places. Bivacco fisso Felice Giordano (4.165m).

Ascent time: 3,00-4,00 hours.

Descent: Along the ascent route.

Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

 

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BALMENHORN 4.167m

First ascent: Peter Knubel and companion, (Jul 17th, 1873).

Difficulty: F+.

Difference in height: About 520m from Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3647m).

Refuge: Rifugio Città di Mantova (3.500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3.647m). Places when open: 250. Winter hut: 15 places. Bivacco fisso Felice Giordano (4.165m).

Ascent time: 2,00-2,30 hours.

Descent: Along the ascent route.

Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

 

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PUNTA GIORDANI 4.046m

First ascent: G. Calderini, V. Zoppetti and Giuseppe Gugliermina, (Aug 10th, 1877).

Difficulty: F+/PD-.

Difference in height: About 790m from Punta Indren.

Refuge: None.

Ascent time: 2,30-3,30 hours from Punta Indren.

Descent: Along the ascent route.

Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

 

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PIRAMIDE VINCENT 4.215m

First ascent: Piero Chiozza, Guglielmo Guglielminetti, Nicola Motta and Antonio Pernettaz, (Aug 23th,1898).

Difficulty: PD.

Difference in height: About 1.000m from Punta Indren.

Refuge: Rifugio Città di Mantova (3.500m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 15 places. Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (3.647m). Places when open: 250.

Ascent time: 3,00-4,00 hours.

Descent: Along the normal route NW slope.

Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

Books and Maps

BOOKS:

• "Guida dei Monti d'Italia - Alpi Pennine (Vol. 2)" di Gino Buscaini - Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, Luglio 1970 (In Italian).
• "Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2014 (inediti).
• "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
• "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta", di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio, Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
• "I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.

MAPS:

• Kompass "Monte Rosa" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
• Kompass "Breuil/Cervinia-Zermatt" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
• I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Cervino e Monte Rosa" 1:50.000.
• Studio F.M.B. "Cervino Monte Rosa" Bologna 1:50.000.
• I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Rosa Alagna e Macugnaga" (n° 10), 1:50.000.

Important Information

• REGIONE AUTONOMA VALLE D'AOSTA Official Site.
• FONDAZIONE MONTAGNA SICURA Villa Cameron, località Villard de la Palud n° 1 Courmayeur (AO) Tel: 39 0165 897602 - Fax: 39 0165 897647.
• GUIDE ALPINE DI GRESSONEY Località Tache Gressoney-La-Trinité 11020 (AO) - Italia.
• A.I.NE.VA. (Associazione Interregionale Neve e Valanghe).

Useful Numbers

• Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto n° 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
• Bollettino Valanghe Tel. 0165-776300.
• Bollettino Meteo Tel. 0165-44113.
• Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.