The Gutenberger Wall

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Less than two hours

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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 The Gutenberger Wall
Created On: Apr 6, 2004
Last Edited On: Apr 6, 2004


Follow the unmarked but well worn trail down to Bucks Bar Dome (the main mass or rock typically climbed the most) The Gutenberger Wall will slowly come into view as you approach the main climbing area. From here, you can either go to skiiers left down class 3 rock and to the wall from there, or skiiers right to the Dinkum gulley class 2 and to the wall. Use caution anywhere near the river it is a dangerous place to be boulder jumping, the rocks are all polished smooth by the river thus being very slippery. The large approach boulder that is pointing up is a good place to get a head start on any of the routes on the Upper Wall. From this point on the approach rock it is best to start a belay here and get to what is known as Grand Central Belay Staion (maybe 80 ft of rope out) . As the name implies, 90% of the routes on the Upper Wall can be started from this point. It is best to belay from the approach rock to Grand Central. There is a lip belaying from the approach rock where the belayer can not see the lead climber and the sound of the river makes it impossilbe to hear your partner, and oh yes, rope drag over the lip.

Route Description

There are so many variations and different routes on the wall I couldnt possibly put them all in. There are 25 different climbs on the Gutenberger Wall. If you are looking at the Wall it is devided into three basic parts. The lower left quadrant that has the overhang on it is call the Iraqi Wall. From this section there is a lip just above the approach rock this lower section is call the Lower Wall. Everything above these two section is called the Upper Wall. Some of the more popular routes are The Gutenberger Wall Direct (5.7) this is just left (climbers left) of Grand Central It follows an easy lead crack with exposure. This crack/route will take you all the way to the top. There are no bolts on this route because of the crack carry enough pro for two to three pitches. The Gutenberger Wall Direct is a friction climb straight up from Grand Central that will also go to the top. The one picture on this page is fairly detailed on the two routes described.

Essential Gear

Dyn. rope 50-60m. rockshoes, harness, a set of stoppers to #10 (depending on the route some are friction climbs) set of quick draws (again depending on route). Enough runners to set up anchors and belay stations.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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rhyang - Nov 21, 2005 12:29 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The Gutenberger Wall may be descended via walk-off, down dirty, brushy, potentially wet slabs, class 3-4. The guidebook says that two double rope rappels will get you to the Grand Central Belay.

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