The Little Matterhorn from...

The Little Matterhorn from near Odessa Lake.


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Foxy Long Bottoms

Foxy Long Bottoms - Sep 13, 2005 5:34 pm - Hasn't voted

5th class?

Do you know where I can find info on some 5th class routes on this peak? It looks like a lot of fun! Thanks!


Nelson - Sep 14, 2005 9:39 am - Hasn't voted

Re: 5th class?

I think Rossiter's and/or Gillete's books have some routes on this. Brenta has those books, you may check with him.

On our first attempt of the standard route we took the wrong side of the ridge and got onto low 5th class stuff near the left skyline in the photo. A couple of us felt like it was being on the Flatirons. We turned around about 100 feet from the top, worried about downclimbing, and because of weather to the north. (In fact an unlucky guy was killed by lightning near Bridelvale Falls, behind Lumpy Ridge, as we were at the base of the peak).

But as you come around to this face I am sure there are a number 5th class routes to find, several pitches. Good luck, add them to the page if you have a chance.

Hmm, looks like this is another photo candidate for re-scan!


brenta - Sep 14, 2005 11:42 am - Hasn't voted

Re: 5th class?

Both Rossiter and Gillett say that there is a 5.7 route reportedly going up the middle of the northeast face for seven pitches with some old pitons.


brenta - Sep 14, 2005 11:58 am - Hasn't voted

Re: 5th class?

Roach, moreover, says that the southeast face is 5.3-5.5.

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