The New Ridge

Page Type
Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.10b (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

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The New Ridge
Created On: Oct 19, 2016
Last Edited On: Oct 19, 2016


The New Ridge is a variant of "Spigolo Ovest-Sud" on Punta di Trubinasca, 250m, 6a+ (5.10b), D. Motl, V. Laurin, 2016

Getting There

30-40minutes from "Bivacco Pedroni Del Pra"

Route Description

The New Ridge is a variant of Spigolo Ovest-Sud (G. Cristofaro, R. Minazzi, Pinardi, Riva, 1935). The route starts in the corner close to edge approximately 20m right from the “Spigolo Ovest Sud”. Climb up the corner approx. 8m. Then cross (traverse) slab to the right (bolt) until reaching crack system. Then follow crack to the corner until corner ends (possible alternative belaying station for 50m ropes). Short slab with finger cracks will lead you bellow overhang hand-crack. Climb the crack to the belaying station with two bolts (6a+, 55m). Second pitch is crossing slab and following a corner and ridge to the ledge bellow short vertical wall. Cross the wall and continue still following ridge and crossing small “towers” to the 2nd (40m, 5b), 3rd (35m, 3-4) and 4th (35m, 3-4) belaying station. 4th belaying station is placed in a corner bellow crack approximately 25m right from final chimney of the “Spigolo Ovest-Sud” route, really close to the south edge. From 4 th belaying station climb up by the wide (Off width) and hand-crack to the ledge (bolt) and still up following hand crack in a corner until the corner´s end (5th belay station with two bolts, 5c+, 40m). 6th pitch follows edge (35m, 4) and leads to the top. 3rd and 4th pitches are the same as “Spigolo Ovest-Sud”.

Essential Gear

Set of friends, some slings (including rope slings with knots) and selection of stoppers has been used for protection

External Links

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The New Ridge

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