The Terrace, 5.7-5.11a

Austin might be known mainly for its food and music, its position as the seat of the state government, and its status of being one of the only places in Texas where it's safe to be a Democrat, but it is also rare among large cities in that it has a lot of good rock climbing within the city itself. Most of that climbing is in the Barton Creek Greenbelt, where there are 15 developed limestone walls. Almost all of the routes are sport, but there are some toprope and trad lines scattered about as well.

 

The Terrace is one of several walls in the popular New Wall/Great Wall area, and its name probably alludes to the fact that the base of the wall is on a broad ledge several feet above the creek bottom, or perhaps it alludes to the long ledge system up high that one can use to set a TR on one route after leading another. A massive tree growing on the lower ledge helps make this wall easy to discern from its neighbors.

 

Nobody is going to spend a whole day at the Terrace; there are only three routes here, though each has variations. But it adds options to this popular area, and it's also a great spot to go if time is limited. 

 

By far, the best source for this wall and others here, whether online or in print, is John Hogge's Austin Climbing: Sport Routes and Deep Water Solos.

 

 

The closest access point is the trailhead at the intersection of Spyglass Drive and Barton Skyway. There are various ways to get here; Google Maps is your friend for this.

 

From the trailhead, hike downhill and then turn right (upstream) when you reach the main multi-use trail. It takes about 15 minutes to hike from the car to the wall. The crag is just left of Great Wall, distinguished by its overhangs.

 

 

From left to right as you face the crag:

• Either Way (5.7/5.8)-- Tommy Blackwell and Chris Grieg put this up in December 2016. Blackwell suggests that it is 5.7 left of the bolt line and 5.8 to the right. You can also go further right and find variations that feel 5.9 and 5.10. By Greenbelt standards, it's a pretty long route (about 45'). The rock is not (yet) polished. 5 bolts, a bit runout to Bolt 5, but a fall won't mean decking.
• Crystal New Persuasion (5.10c)-- Tricky section near the beginning, then pretty smooth going until the last bolt. The crux is getting from that bolt over the bulge and to the anchors. (Did this on TR.) Going left of the last bolt drops this to 10a or 5.9 depending on how far left you go.
• Cactus Patch (5.10a)-- There are two bolts near the bottom. Climb to the left one for the 10a (straight to the right is an 11a called Cactus Patch Direct). The start is the crux-- poor feet and very polished, may feel harder than the grade. The rest is fun and pretty easy.