"Tollhouse Traverse" is a good diverse three pitch climb climb. It is suitable for budding leaders, introducing climbing to others and seasoned climbers looking for a nice relaxing route.
(approx. 1/4 mile) begins at the hanglider's slab and descends between the Beginners/Sunday slab area. The trail bends to the right, skirts the slab, follows the basic contour of the rock until the base of the rock is reached. Tollhouse Traverse begins on the obvious ramp with a couple of 4' flakes hanging out about 35' up.
Begins on the ledge that the route finishes on, on the upper left of the rock, just North of Cap rock. Descend 3rd 4rth book to a ledge with two rap hangers. I have used two 60m ropes.
Route DescriptionPitch 1:
Follow crack, gear to #3 Camalot, to where a crack system opens up on the left (approx 60'). Pass three bolts and belay.
Continue up steepening crack, mid sized nuts/cams, to a two bolt belay on a comfortable stance.
Follow the diminishing upward/horizontal crack to the large right facing dihedral, gear to 3/4", to a two bolt belay. Ascend 3rd/4th class to the top (80').
Alternate Pitch 3 (5.7 friction):
Follow upward horizontal crack to the middle of the face, gear small to 3/4", continue up three bolts to the two bolt belay ledge.
Small to Mid-sized Nuts/Cams
60m rope (Shorter may require a fourth pitch)