Tollhouse Traverse

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.5 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
3

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Tollhouse Traverse
Created On: Mar 5, 2007
Last Edited On: Mar 6, 2007

Route Description

"Tollhouse Traverse" is a good diverse three pitch climb climb. It is suitable for budding leaders, introducing climbing to others and seasoned climbers looking for a nice relaxing route.

Approach

Descent Trail: (approx. 1/4 mile) begins at the hanglider's slab and descends between the Beginners/Sunday slab area. The trail bends to the right, skirts the slab, follows the basic contour of the rock until the base of the rock is reached. Tollhouse Traverse begins on the obvious ramp with a couple of 4' flakes hanging out about 35' up.

Rap Route: Begins on the ledge that the route finishes on, on the upper left of the rock, just North of Cap rock. Descend 3rd 4rth book to a ledge with two rap hangers. I have used two 60m ropes.

Tollhouse Descent  TrailDescent Trail

Route Description

Pitch 1: Follow crack, gear to #3 Camalot, to where a crack system opens up on the left (approx 60'). Pass three bolts and belay.

Pitch 2: Continue up steepening crack, mid sized nuts/cams, to a two bolt belay on a comfortable stance.

Pitch 3: Follow the diminishing upward/horizontal crack to the large right facing dihedral, gear to 3/4", to a two bolt belay. Ascend 3rd/4th class to the top (80').

Alternate Pitch 3 (5.7 friction): Follow upward horizontal crack to the middle of the face, gear small to 3/4", continue up three bolts to the two bolt belay ledge.

Essential Gear

Small to Mid-sized Nuts/Cams
4 Draws
60m rope (Shorter may require a fourth pitch)