|One of the finest (the other is Torre Trieste) towers belonging to the Civetta Group (Cantoni di Pelsa subgroup) :
It is the south ending summit of the branch : the western pillar of the door to the Civetta group.
Looking at its black&yellow south wall (500 m drop !) while arriving you can hardly think that this is the most "human" summit of the whole group (speaking from climbers' point of view) and the most frequently climbed.
Many routes on this fine tower (none easy) ... (some are very classic and fantastic, many are variants of low importance)
Only for skilled climbers - not at all for beginners : this is the admission exam to the Civetta Climbing University !
all climbs start from rif. Vazzoler
- 1714m :
starting from Belluno, follow the valle Agordina : Agordo - Listolade.
A route on the right can bring you till capanna Trieste where you must start walking
Routes overviewnormal route - NE wall
almost only to come down, it's not difficult to climb but to find - 300 m drop - 600 m develope - AD
many possibilities to gain the big ledge in other ways
- via Castiglioni-Kahn, the most classic and amusing - the only route that requires normal skill - D - 300 m drop
- via Livanos - fine difficult (TD) climb of about 300 m drop
- via Andrich-Faé
- fantastic and classic - TD - 300 m drop - the finest !
- via Ratti-Panzeri - TD - 300 m drop
- via Tissi-Andrich-Bortoli
- another fantastic route, classic and frequently climbed - 500 m drop - TD sup
- via Redaelli-Acquistapace-Zucchi - 500 m drop - TD sup A+
on the South wall 2 more routes are sometimes climbed as training for the big walls ... this routes are difficult and climbing is hard :
- direttissima (Mauro-Minuzzo) - 450 m drop - TD - A+
- big diedre (Biasin-Melucci) - 430 m drop - TD sup - A+
When To Climb
spring - summer
this summit is low and due to its exposure the south wall can be climbed almost in all seasons
no need, Rifugio Vazzoler can host you ...
but if you don't want to spend money you can carry a small tent and put it in the meadows along the path
on April, 14th 2020 a landslide on the S wall has partially destroyed 5 routes :
- "Tissi" (Attilio Tissi, Giovanni Andrich, Attilio Bortoli, 20/8/1933) (seriously damaged)
- “Gran diedro” (Giancarlo Biasin – Paolo Melucci, 27-28/7/1960) (seriously damaged)
- “Gran Diedro – Diretta” (Pit Schubert, Klaus Werner, Alois Wojas, 6-7/7/1974) (seriously damaged)
- “Via Della Libertà” (Marampon, Mussi, 14-9/9/1980) (first part)
- “Rondò Veneziano” (Christoph Hainz, Kurt Astner, 7/2000 e 8/2001) (first pitch)