See the Getting There section on the main page for directions to the start of this route.
Route Overview (Blue is Option #1, Red is Option #2)
Round Trip Distance :
4 mi (measured using Option #2)
Elevation Gain :
High clearance or 4WD is not required to reach the start of this approach. The routes to Arta Lake and to gain the ridges have no trails, therefore route finding is required. A GPS could be helpful but is not necessary. Although this route is entirely off trail there is no bush whacking to speak of.
South Face - Fun Scrambling
Just before the Class 3/4 Scramble
From the parking area you will have a good view of your objective to your right. Make your way towards the peak in a west northwest direction, for about 0.3 miles. Here you can choose two options. I would recommend ascending via option #1 then to descend via option #2. However, if you are uncomfortable with class 4, I would recommend using option #2. Option #1 is also a mile shorter (one way) than option #2.
Option #1 – Class 3 to 4
This option consists of ascending the steep slope on the south side of the peak. Scramble up this slope and gain the ridge just east
of the summit. From here head towards the summit and head to the south side of the summit face. Continuing alongside the south face there are many ascent options, all Class 3 to 4, I don’t believe there is a way to avoid class 4 to get to the summit. A shot of this part can be seen here
. Depending on where you ascend, you will probably top out just east of the summit and traverse to the north side of the peak and then continue to the west of the summit, then back east for the actual summit.
Option #2 – Class 2 to 3
Instead of heading directly up the south slope of the peak, in option #1, parallel the peaks south side by heading west. Heading directly west for ¼ a mile until you reach Arta Lake (10,450 feet), continue around the north side of the lake. Still heading west for another ¼ of a mile you will reach Survey Lake (10,690 feet). From Survey Lake you will have a good view of your route up
to gain the saddle (11,300 feet), this is also the easy class 3 section. While avoiding the cliff bands to the southwest, make your way directly up the slope for 600 feet to gain the ridge. From here you will be able to see your way to the top along the easy slopes. Going mostly east, head along the easy ridge and you will reach the top in ¾ a mile.