Via delle Mamme, Torre Central del Paine West Face

Page Type
Route
Location:
Patagonia, Chile, South America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Big Wall
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
One to two days
Difficulty:
ED sup. UIAA VII/A3
Rock Difficulty:
5.10b (YDS)

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Via delle Mamme, Torre Central del Paine West Face
Created On: May 6, 2011
Last Edited On: Aug 5, 2018

Overview

Via delle Mamme - West Face of Torre Central del Paine

The Torres del Paine come out from the Magellanic forests with high and impressive vertical cliffs. The majestic and the highest one among the three is the incredible Torre Central, situated in the middle.
The West wall of the Torre Central is an impressive 800 meters high wall, secluded and hidden inside a wild basin surrounded by a circle of others mighty peaks. It considerably clashes with the iconic image of the opposite side, the East wall, celebrated and well visible from the Mirador, a panoramic point of view near the Base Camp approachable by a short walk. Here it's possible to take maybe the most impressive view over Torres del Paine stunning East walls, quite famous all over the world in reason of their excellence and outstanding steepness. 

Dawn on Torres del Paine
East walls of Torres del Paine from the Mirador



Who has not admired - if not in person at least in the pictures - this masterpiece of nature? While rising towards the sky like three perfect granite arrows they represent one of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world and draw irresistibly the eye of every climber. This vision is celebrated as well as the beauty of the surrounding landscape, shaped by the action of the ancient glaciers. Also renowned are the inclement weather conditions which distinguish this area. 

 As told the West face does not allow to be observed so easily as the East face !  It's a less known but stunning wall,  cut by two obvious cracks-systems. 


West walls in Torres del Paine, South Patagonia, Chile
West walls of Torres del Paine - Ph. australopitecus


In 1992 an italian team climbed in first ascent the right cracks-system, opening a new route named Via delle Mamme, a challenging direct line on good rock, following mainly steep and often overhanging cracks.

Jumaring along Via delle Mamme (Torre Central del Paine)
Jumaring along Via delle Mamme during the first ascent

Getting There

Road approach

Torres del Paine are located in the Southern Chilean Patagonia (Chile’s Magallanes Region, Ultima Esperanza Province, Torres del Paine Community), between the Cordillera de Los Andes and the Patagonian steppes. The approach to the area is from Punta Arenas, the capital of Chile’s Region XII, a more than 100,000 inhabitants’s town, with an active airport (2,500 Km South of Santiago). A 200 Km paved road (Ruta CH-9) connects Punta Arenas with Puerto Natales, the last small town on the way to Paine Region. From Puerto Natales (about 20,000 inhabitants, hotels) drive along a 120 Km unsurfaced road, leading to Laguna Amarga Keeper Post (Park Gate).


From here a narrow 7 Km. long car road (private, tourist-cars are not allowed) leads to the Estancia Paine (Lodge), from where it starts the approach-trail to the Chilean Camp; follow the trail to Torres Base Camp, lying at the foot of Torres del Paine East faces (about 3-4 hours by walking).
An impressive view point - the famous “Mirador” - is easily reached following a short trail from Torres Base Camp.

Cuernos del Paine from Lake Pehoe'
Cuernos del Paine from Lake Pehoe'

History

Back from Torre Central del Paine, 1992




The first ascent of "Via delle Mamme" was realized in 1992, November 15th-16th by the team of "Torres del Paine '92" Italian Expedition composed by Carlo Barbolini C.A.A.I. - Bruno De Donà A.G.A.I. - Angelo Pozzi - Alberto Rampini C.A.A.I.- Mario Vighetti

Walking approach


Walking approach

From Laguna Amarga follow the track to Estancia Paine and then the trail to the Torres del Paine Base Camp (650 m.), situated inside the beechs wood below Torres del Paine majestic East Faces. Continue up the Rio Ascensio Valley and then follow on the left the Ascensio Glacier's moraine.

Carrying the gear on the snow-gully


Along the moraine you pass near a great bivouac place covered by a huge block.


A long snow-gully leads to the base of Central Tower West Face, situated inside a mighty circle of peaks, closed by Fortaleza and Escudo. Here the expedition put the advanced camp.

Route Description

***Via delle Mamme

Summit altitude: m. 2460
ED+, VII, A3 (UIAA Scale)
Climbing length: 800 m.
Exposure: West
First ascent: Carlo Barbolini - Bruno De Donà - Angelo Pozzi - Alberto Rampini - Mario Vighetti 15-16 november 1992.


The impressive wall is cut by two very obvious cracks' systems, situated in the left-hand side of West Face: "Via delle Mamme" follows the right one, while along the left crack rises "Rosso di Sera". The route climbs a vertical cracks' system linked by two pendulums. All the belays are equipped with one peg and one bolt, while along the pitches there are a few pegs in place. Necessary some pegs and all size friends.

"Via delle Mamme" second ascent was made in 1996 by Scott Lazar, Mike Pennings and Cameron Tague (USA), mostly free climbing.
A complete free ascent is still waiting for a corageous party, and it seems possible.

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 60, helmet, some pegs, all size friends, 15 quickdraws, ribbons.

Red Tape

Torre Central and the entire Cordillera del Paine is lying inside "Torres del Paine National Park", one of greatest park in the country, established in 1959 and declared an UNESCO WORLD BIOSPHERE RESERVE in 1978. Access in regulated and an entrance fee is due.

Meteo

CNN METEO CONDITIONS PUERTO NATALES
METEO TORRES DEL PAINE
METEO PATAGONIA

External Links

Some useful informations here:

Erratickrock Patagonia
Torres del Paine National Park
Chile Austral
Andeshandbook
Concierge Travel Guide

Guidebooks and maps


 

Torres del Paine map

"Patagonia Terra Magica per alpinisti e viaggiatori" Gino Buscaini and Silvia Metzeltin, Dall'Oglio Ed.

 

Patagonia Guidebook












Via delle Mamme, Torre Central del Paine West Face

Route
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Geography

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Parents

Torre Central del PaineRoutes