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Route |
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49.28848°S / 73.03825°W |
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Trad Climbing |
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A few days |
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5.10 R 700m TD+ |
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5.10 (YDS) |
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P1 (5.9) Take a sweet
looking crack that sort of is lame at the start but get's really good.
Hanging belay where you run out of rope.
P2 (5.10+) We took the
crack straight up through a finger crack roof higher up that's well
protected. Ended up being the crux for us. This brings you to the ramp
in which you get a better belay. One can move right before the roof but
it's sort of devious. Take the roof. It's interesting and fun.
P3
(5.8ish) Blast off for another 60 meters following the ramp with cool
cracks and death blocks in sections you don't want to cut loose on your
partner.
P4 (5.10ish) Follow the face up. It get sort of grainy and run out at the crux but never super dangerous. Belay 60 meters up.
P5 (5.9) Follow the ramp for another rope length.
P6 (5.9) Another rope length up ramp
P7
(5.10a) I guess is the crux but I found it easier then basically all
the other 5.10 pitches. This pitch takes you to the VERY scenic ridge.
P8
(5.8/9) Follow a ledge onto the East Face now and continue for a while
until you start heading up on sort of a buttress. Coninue up for a while
until you cut right when the terrain get's steeper. Belay. Notice the
A1 KB dihedral above you. 100m? Simul climb
P9 (5.9+?) Follow
this sort of dihedral above until you get to a bolt at the very base of
the A1 dihedral. Lead this pitch so you don't get the next pitch or if
your unlucky like me follow it. It's about 40 meters to here.
P10
(5.10 R) It gets super tricky now. The topo doesn't describe much. Head
right past the dihedral onto a face with sort of a flake small corner
feature. You clip one shitty knifeblade with one piece below you that's
by the anchor. It's heady insecure and sort of scary with potential for
big falls maybe on the ledge. I remember them being 5.9+ moves to get to
the KB with your last gear being basically the anchor. Continue up past
the KB until you get to this sort of scary looking sugar flake. Shove 3
pieces of gear into it as it's the last gear you get for 40? ft. Now is
the scary route finding part. It's a 80 degree slab above. No holds at
all so move left on this sloping 75 degree not so great footholds. To
get to this part requires 5.10 moves. Then move left very slowly. Then
you get to some 5.8 terrain that's really runout. Climb to the anchor
and be happy your alive. On this point of the climb the seracs below
Fitz Roy were crashing down. Rockfall was falling all around. Huge
glaciers below you. So awesome!
P11 (5.9) One more pitch taking the line of weakness. A full 60m takes you to the summit!
DESCENT:
Take the standard descent line down the face you know nothing about.
Typical Patagonia. Chlair De Luna takes you to the ramp which then take
you to the base. And then you sketch your way down the toilet bowl
hoping rockfall doesn't occur. Rappel 3 raps. All together it was like
15 or something rappels. Important: Bring TWO 60m ropes!!