Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir

Page Type
Ötztal/Tirol, Austria, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Ice Climbing
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
Class 3

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir
Created On: Feb 21, 2008
Last Edited On: Feb 23, 2008


The Vorderer Brochkogel (3565m) offers various routes to climb, especially in summer.
This route is an easy one, starting at the Breslauer Hut.
The ascent to the summit folows the natural line through a snow field, with some varieties, not steeper than 45°.
Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir

Depending on the weather you have a very good Firn , in turns with deeper snow and in the upper part, some blank ice fields.
The top of the Vorderen Brochkogel offers a fantastiv view over the Ötztal Valley, the famous Wildspitze and to the Ortler Range.
Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir

Getting There

Starting point is the Breslauer Hut, a very nice Hut in the Ötztaler Alps, 2 hours away from Vent, the little village in the Ötztal.
From the Breslauer Hut you are able to see the Vorderen Brochkogel and also the East Gully.

Route Description

Starting at the Breslauer Hut, (2884m) following the way to the Mitterkarjoch, the way to Hinterer Brochkogel and the Wildspitze.
From the hut you have a very good view to the Vorderer Brochkogel and the East Gully with the various routes and the South-East ridge.
Following the trail cross the glacier after 45 minutes, direct to the line of the East Gully.
Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir

The Gully is between 40° and 45° with good Firn and sometimes some snow fields wich makes the climbing a little bit more uncomfortable. The ridge on your left offers some places to build a stand if its needed.
Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir

For a stand there are only some slings needed.
During the ascent you can decide between the esier, left line or the little longer and steeper right ascent line.
Both ends a little bit under the top, in a height of about 3530 meters,
the last meters to the top is a mixed, snow covered rocky part, but not very difficult.

The descent via South East ridge maybe good in summer, but in winter conditions its not the best choice.
Climbing the first meters over the ridge, with some rare possibilities for a safe stand, traverse back in the ascent route as soon as possible and walk down at the ridge side.
Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir

The way back to the Breslauer Hut takes also 45 minutes, on the same way.

Essential Gear

In winter conditions, crampons, snow shoes or ski for the approach,
ice axe, a rope, some slings for belay, Helmet,
Avalanche gear

Vorderer Brochkogel East Couloir

19 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections


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