We have exceeded the Weissmies 4017m: From the south to the west. South ridge up, west flank down. That is worth much.
Start in the Almageller Hut 2894m. On a footpath and path spoors, over boulders and debris to the historic mountain pass ‘Zwischenbergpass 3268m’. Now one goes to the north to the Rottal-glacier, where the south ridge begins. Over the south ridge highly to the Point 3972m, climbing in the 2 degree. From the point 3972m the final comes, over a last and somewhat exposed ridge on the summit of Weissmies 4017m.
We descended over the normal route: the west ridge/west flank. This route is technically not with difficulty, BUT there are enormous and deep crevasses. The Trift-glacier it „tore strongly apart“ - rope up.
Thus, Weissmies is rather a simple 4000er. But the glacier is dangerous. In principle each 4000er has its malice and dangers. Rope up is important.
With questions or unclarity, I help you gladly.
> Route: Almageller hut 2894m (SAC Niesen) - Zwischenbergen-pass 3268m - south-ridge - Weissmies 4017m - west-ridge - Trift glacier - Weissmies hut 2726m (SAC Olten)
> Difficulty: WS (AD) / III. Route No. 556 & 555.
> Time required: 4 hours for the ascent.
> Guide book: "Hochtouren im Wallis" from Hermann Biner or "Clubführer Walliser Alpen No.5 vom Strahlhorn zum Simplon" from Maurice Brandt.
> Link to Weissmies 4017m: >www.weissmies-tour.ch
Written and climbed by Cyrill
If you have any question, do not hesitate to contact me: firstname.lastname@example.org
Weissmies 4017m Weissmies 4017m
Almageller Hut 2894m - Link to Almageller Hut
Weissmies Hut 2726m - Link to Weissmies Hut