From Q Ishinca Base Camp walk on the N side of the sandy plain. Cross a stream and follow cairns up the valley to the E between two large moraines. Turn N up the steep crest of a moraine which can be followed to gain the glacier to the right of rocky cliffs, 2h. Ascent the gentle glacial slopes to camp 1 (5.300m), 3-4h total.
Obvious line starting from the base of the west face. Depending on the season it might not be possible to attempt it; the later the season the worst. It is recomended a very early start to avoid a very soupy-snow ascent. From camp 1 (5.300m) traverse rightwards under the West Face and climb a line on the South end wich skirts the upper serac barrier on the right to join the south ridge 100m from the summit, 5-7 h from camp. And climb the snow mushroom.
Descent abseiling the snow mushroom summit and descent the NW ridge.
The usual gear for a snow an ice climb. Crampons, ice axes, a few ice screws ( We never used them on the route because it got really soupy and dangerous), rope and snow-stakes.
There are no proper fees to climb the mountain, although you will be asked for a little money the day you sign up in Collon in order to keep the trail to BC in good shape.
It is a highly recomended route.
Although BC is not a cold camp, Camp1, 5.300 m. can get really cold on a windy day.
Best to climb in June-July, some seasons it can be climbed in August.
All info gathered by:
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor
This is his website: www.todovertical.com