Whymper Couloir

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.93550°N / 6.96860°E
Additional Information Route Type: Snow climb
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: AD-
Sign the Climber's Log


Start from the Couvercle Hut, walk up N the upper part of the Glacier de Talèfre to the base of the couloir.

Route Description

Cross the Rimaye at its right and continue up the couloir for about 2003 meters, traverse to the left to cross a small rock barrier and continue climbing the couloir up to the col.
Follow the ridge to the top. Descent is easy: just the same way around: abseil points are provided (about 12/13) at the left bank.
It is essential to complete descent before the sun gets on the couloir: rock fall, avalances.

Essential Gear

double ropes (min. 50 meters), 2 ice axes, crampons, some large slings to strengthen the abseil points.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-2 of 2

thomas.schmeidl - Apr 2, 2002 4:20 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Is there a mistake in your description?

Chamonix Man

Chamonix Man - Jun 21, 2004 5:38 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The Alpine Club Guide Book grades this climb as AD and Gaston Rebuffat grades it as AD+. I think that the AD- grade given on this page is too low, because although the technical difficulties are not too great, the route is long and sustained.

The author is right to say that you must take two ropes, I took two 50m ropes and would have prefered 2 x 60m due to the spacing of the belay points.

Viewing: 1-2 of 2



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