marco - Jul 14, 2019 9:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 1961
Whymper Couloir, Aig. Verte
The couloir is exposed to rock fall, so leave early. View of Monte Bianco from summit is spectacular!
wdimpfl - Dec 28, 2017 11:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1974
Fall crossing the bergschrund!
Date approximate. This was the route of my descent with Louis Reichardt after climbing the Coutouier Couloir. At the bergschrund we were connected by about 10 or 15 feet of rope, climbing down simultaneously together, Lou below me. He asked how were we going to get across the bergschrund. I said, "Jump." Which seemed simple to me. Lou, jumped as I suggested, but to my horror, being extremely nearsighted, misjudged the landing, his crampons caught on the lip and he took a header down the steep glacier. I quickly prepared to jump after him, but was yanked off my perch. As I plummeted past him I self arrested but as he shot past me I was yanked again and lost grip of my ice ax. Then, shooting past one another a number of times, Lou, being incredibly strong, managed to self arrest and stopped both of us. As we stood up I discovered that my ax, which was tied to me by a line, had hit me in the mouth making a small cut in my lip (see picture). Lou applied a butterfly bandage to close the wound and we continued on our descent.
marco - Jul 14, 2019 9:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 1961
Whymper Couloir, Aig. VerteThe couloir is exposed to rock fall, so leave early. View of Monte Bianco from summit is spectacular!
wdimpfl - Dec 28, 2017 11:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1974
Fall crossing the bergschrund!Date approximate. This was the route of my descent with Louis Reichardt after climbing the Coutouier Couloir. At the bergschrund we were connected by about 10 or 15 feet of rope, climbing down simultaneously together, Lou below me. He asked how were we going to get across the bergschrund. I said, "Jump." Which seemed simple to me. Lou, jumped as I suggested, but to my horror, being extremely nearsighted, misjudged the landing, his crampons caught on the lip and he took a header down the steep glacier. I quickly prepared to jump after him, but was yanked off my perch. As I plummeted past him I self arrested but as he shot past me I was yanked again and lost grip of my ice ax. Then, shooting past one another a number of times, Lou, being incredibly strong, managed to self arrest and stopped both of us. As we stood up I discovered that my ax, which was tied to me by a line, had hit me in the mouth making a small cut in my lip (see picture). Lou applied a butterfly bandage to close the wound and we continued on our descent.