In the middle of September just in time for the closure of the Rothorn hut, me and my cousin Andi were the first to enjoy the winter room. The weather forecast was good but at 4.00am, despite of millions of stars above us, there was a thunderstorm in the east. After a rather late start at 5.00am we climbed under clear skies, but when we stepped into the rocks below the couloir, we were finding ourselves in thick fog. At the time we came to the “Binerplatten” (the crux) they were unpleasantly wet. We were the only climbers on our route. The second party had turned around. After 6 hours at 10.00am we summited and got exposed for light snowfall. Visibility was very poor. The descent was wet and it made our progress rather slow. From the “Gabel” we rappelled 5-6 rope lengths on our 60m rope. Just in time back down in Zermatt to catch the last train back to Berne.
Great and exciting climb. Unfortunately we missed out on the divine panorama!
Outstanding climb on excellent rock! Descent via normal route to Rothornhütte.
Beautifull weather and not crowded at all on the mountain, despite the Zinalrothornhut was completely full.
My first attempt to climb this great mountain, in 2004, was interrupted by bad weather as I reached the upper rock pitches. This time we were very fortunate because the weather was clear and the upper rock pitches had no snow or ice (there was a 3-week long heat wave in the area during our visit). I was accompanied by my son Christoph and each of us had a local guide.
We greatly enjoyed the spectacular views from the top including the rare sight of the Matterhorn with no snow on the east face or on the Hornli ridge! A memorable experience.
Climbed the north ridge (up and down) from the Mountet Hut. A great alpine climb!
I was the rather inexperienced leader of a party of 5 students and one aged German 'hitch-hiker' (who came to regret joining us... ). Having failed miserably on the Weisshorn we were determined to summit, although treating it like the only thing we knew - a British rock-climb - we were incredibly slow and got benighted on the way down. After that we learned the gentle art of 'moving together' - and Fritz, the German hitch-hiker, not to hitch a ride with a bunch of inept Brit youths.
We lost a lot of time to find the right passage over the Rothorn glacier, climbed wrong route to the Schneegrat. Reached the base of couloir to Gabel after 6 hours, so we decided to come back (too late and a little bit tired). It was a pitty because the conditions (weather and mountain) were perfect. I'll try again next time.
Just can join my previous speaker: too much snow!
We started from a bivouac below the Rothorn hut (booked up). Easy glacier, scrambling and snow fields until the horizontal snow ridge. Tricky terrain traversing the south face, but EXCELLENT rock on the SW ridge. Nice but short crux ("Biner-Platte", III) - much easier than expected. Also very funny to get around the "Kanzel".
Panaché & hot chocolate at the Rothorn hut and continued down to Zermatt (0:45 AM).
Would definitely climb this one again!
Too much snow on the south face, cold and windy the rdige.
The climb was long and demanding, with all the way up to be trace din high and soft snow.
Nice mountain in any case
Climbed the North Ridge
Beautiful climbing and great views from the summit..... But a very long approach...it makes it a great workout
Conditions weren't so great: snow, lots of wind and as soon as we got to the summit the clouds moved in. But what a beautiful mountain!
We started from the Rothornhut. The only downside was the number of rope teams on the mountain which made it a rather long day out. At the end we were caught by the daily afternoon thunderstorms shortly before we were back at the hut.
Snowed all night so we had to turn back 50 meters from the summit, very icy but i found the rock climbing enjoyable
The day before we went back from 3800m, bad weather wind and snow. But one day later we enjoyed this great climb. Never to difficult. There were many others partys whichs slows you down especialy at the coulior and the Binerplatte.
And what a view.
What a fantastic ridge! We found it still in snowy conditions after the bad weather from a week before. We climbed everything with crampons, which slows down a lot, but is really doable, even on the traverse of the Sphinx. We belayed only 4 rope lengths - the Rasoir, the Sphinx traverse, the Bourrique and the Bosse. The Arete Blanche is magnificent!
Foggy and cold.. Nice route!
Nice traverse to the mountet hut. I found the N ridge more interesting than the SE, climbing wise.
Beautiful climb. Bottleneck from the couloir that really slowed down the ascent and subsequent descent and had to walk to the rothorn hut in a thunderstorm!
A very nice climb, but too much traffic ahead of us slowed down the rate of ascent. Perhaps it was a mistake to choose a Sunday for this summit? Further, I sprained my ankle due to carelessness on the descent (which did not really help us catch up time-wise). We were back at the hut just in time for dinner.
I climbed with my twin brother.
Fantastic Tour to Zinalrothorn 4221m.
my picture are here: Link to Zinalrothorn