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1910 Original Route
Route

1910 Original Route

 
1910 Original Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Nordland, Norway, Europe

Lat/Lon: 68.23330°N / 14.56670°E

Object Title: 1910 Original Route

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.5

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: darinchadwick

Created/Edited: Jul 27, 2004 / Aug 3, 2004

Object ID: 161680

Hits: 2041 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


Follow parking directions to the church graveyard. The shortest way to the climb is to drive just past the graveyard up a private drive with room on the side for 4 or 5 cars. From the fenced corner, thread between huge boulders on a small climbers path. Climb steeply up. At a small brook (dry from midsummer on), cross using a bouldering move or two, then continue basically straight up. Toward the top is a short scramble of about 5 meters. Once at the saddle, dump the gear, and look for two crack systems that are nearest to the saddle. The left crack is the rappel route, the right is the 1910.

Route Description


Pitch 1: 3 steep moves up the shallow alcove/crack takes you to an easy slab. Hop up this slab and head directly for a chimney. A couple more steep moves to get into the chimney, and you're at the belay. Thread blocks for anchor.

Pitch 2: The famous traverse pitch. from the belay, climb up and left on huge but steep holds. 2 old rusty pitons are here, but there are also a couple of great horns to sling, and a couple stopper placements. Each move out increases the exposure. Turn the corner to a large ledge below the horns. Bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral to the gap between the horns. Now climb right, without crossing the gap. An awkward move onto a ledge under an overhang takes you around to a fine slab with a thin finger crack diagonaling up from the base. There was a fixed nut in this crack in summer 2004. Ease up the slab for 2 moves, and there you are on top of the storhorn. Clip a bolt below you (the anchor for the rappel), pull in enough rope, and JUMP!

Descent: Rappel from the bolts on the Storhorn to the ledge at the top of pitch 2. Rappel from bolts directly to the ground. Only a single 60m rope is needed for rappelling.

Essential Gear


How much gear you take depends on how much you trust the old pitons that are exposed to the salty air...
A few nuts from small to medium, Camalot #1 and 2 or equal size.
2 double slings, and 3-4 single slings for slinging horns and easing rope drag.
5 quickdraws.
The pitches are fairly short so not a whole lot is needed.

Images

Climbing pitch 2. Almost to...Looking down at the top of...Synne leading the awkward...The beginning of pitch 1....