Forsida (The Outside Route)

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Forsida (The Outside Route)

1910 Original Route

Forsida (The Outside Route)

Page Type: Route

Location: Austvågøy/Lofoten/Nordland , Norway, Europe

Lat/Lon: 68.23330°N / 14.56670°E

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: TD inf., UIAA VI-

Number of Pitches: 5

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Page By: mazzani

Created/Edited: Jul 20, 2011 / Mar 7, 2012

Object ID: 730544

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Table of Contents

Overview

From Svolvær Geita view over Austvågøy Island, Lofoten

Austvagoy Island from Svolvaer Geita

A party looking at the town before starting the climb

Svolvaer Geita - A party looking at the town befor starting the climb

Svolvaer Geita - Over the top of Big Horn

***FORSIDA (THE OUTSIDE ROUTE) REPORT

Difficulty: TD inf., 5+ Norwegian
Equipment: not equipped
Climbing length: 130 mt.
Exposure: W
First ascent: W. Hoyer – A. Krane 1947
First ascent of Vestveggen-Avslutning (The West Wall Finish) B. Bommen – B. Lyche 1928
Starting point: Svolvær Kinderngarten (parking)

Forsida Route is the classic one of Lofoten and above all a very nice climb over excellent granite. Notwithstanding it’s not a very long route, Forsida it’s the longest way to reach Svolvær Geita bicuspidate summit and probably the best one. The “goat of Svolvær” – this is the mean of its name - overlooks the town of Svolvær throwing into the sky two gigantic horns, Storhorn (The Big Horn) on the left-hand side and Lillehorn (The Little Horn) on the right-hand side. After the recent rock-fall from Lillehorn inner edge - increasing the distance between the horns - now the traditional jump from the big horn to the little one is still possible, but not much recommended because…the gap is wider and the landing space smaller!

Getting There

From Svolvaer Geita view over the islands and behind the mainland

From Svolvær roundabout turn to left (road-sign E10-Fiskebøl) and follow Kong’s Olav Veg (E10) for 1100 mt., then leave the E10 and turn to left (road-sign Melkerdalen – Nybyen). Turn to right reaching a Kinderngarten. Parking. Take the road towards the church graveyard and at once a path signed Sti Track is starting on your left-hand side. The path is marked with a red T (DNT – Den Norske Touristforening signals). After a slab equipped with an iron chain, follow the steep track to a shoulder when The Goat appears. At a path-forking don’t follow the main path but turn to right, cross a stream and cut diagonally a steep grassy slope, reaching Forsida starting point. (40 minutes from the road).

Route Description

Forsida: last pitch start (The crux)

Forsida first pitches

Forsida: The diagonal cracks - Photo Silvia Mazzani july 2009

FORSIDA (THE OUTSIDE ROUTE) REPORT - Norwegian Scale

Starting point from a little terrace below SW ridge in Western side of the Ridge (little tree).
L1 - Climb a short steep wall with good holds, then follow some little corners and cracks; slantways to left climb a rib or otherwise a groove on the right. Easier rocks lead to a belay a bit higher of an horizontal crack. 3+, 35 mt.
L2 - Slantways to left cross an edge and reach the base of a beautiful steep crack. Belay below the crack. 4, 15 mt.
L3 - Climb the crack with superb moves, then cross a ridge towards right, reaching a huge terrace named “the sofa” and a stance below a steep diagonal cracks’ system. 5, 30 mt.
L4 – Straightly over the belay climb the cracks’ system; most difficult section is the first one, then am easier section leads to the ending thin cracks. Climb these and belay below a small shoulder. 5, 30 mt.
L5 – Reach the shoulder. From here a diagonal crack – it’s The West Wall Finish – leads to the summit of The Big Horn. Climb on the right a shallow corner with a crux start, then follow an easier dihedral-crack and finally a slab, leading to the top. 5+, 20 mt. Exciting vertiginous belay. Cross the gap to the Little Horn.

Descent: with two abseils along North side. A short abseil from the summit leads to a comfortable stance. A 28 mt. abseil reachs a little saddle. From here a grassy gully reachs the route’s starting point.

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 50, helmet, various side friends and nuts

History

Svolvær Geita first ascent was realized in 1910 by a Norwegian team (Bryn, Schieldrup and Rubenson).
This ascension is a milestone in Norwegian climbing history. The same team realized – the following week – the first ascent of Stetind, after sailing along Tjsfjorden to reach the wild peak.