OverviewBecause the 5.4 rating makes it good for beginners and new trad leaders, Abbey Road seems to be a pretty popular route at Moderate Mecca. Add in the fact that RRCNCA doesn't offer a whole lot in the easy range, and you should know to get there early. When I got there at 8 on a Tuesday morning with my son, we reached the crag just a minute before another group that was going to be setting up mock leads and thus spending hours on the route.
Getting ThereTake Charleston Boulevard through Summerlin, after which it magically becomes SR 159. Before reaching the Scenic Drive for RRCNCA, turn right onto the signed road to Calico Basin. Turn left at the second major intersection. (The first has signs clearly warning about private property.) This second intersection is signed for Red Springs and is really hard to miss. Drive a short distance to a large parking lot. Don't take the main, boardwalk trail. It will get you there but will add a small amount of time and make you rub shoulders with the rabble. (Take this trail on the way back, with gear hanging from you, to show your superior genetics.)
Pitch 2-- Continue up through one of two good features to easier ground and then scramble to the top of the crag. Most people skip this pitch. When I first climbed this in 2015, I did not see anchors above the second pitch, but when I climbed it again in June 2017, I noticed newish-looking anchors there, so I am not sure if I just missed them before or if they truly are new. Anyway, these anchors make the easy second pitch worthwhile since you can rap back down without leaving anything. There is also an easy walk-off from the top back to the trail and parking lot.
Essential GearStoppers work great on the first pitch, mostly small and medium sizes. The first pitch also takes cams up to the equivalent of a BD #3.
The second pitch will accept up to a #4. In fact, if you have a medium or large hex, there is an absolutely bomber placement a few feet up from the start that will quickly reassure both leader and belayer of no Factor 2 falls at the beginning.