OverviewOne of the first "modern" climbs in Varassova, opened in May 4, 1975 by Dimitris Korres and John (...?). It is considered a classic. Moderate difficulty by modern standards, takes natural pro well, and the few bolts that replaced rusty pitons haven't change its trad style.
Photo and route description at Routes.gr
ApproachA short (15') trail starting by the well under the route "Skoupa". From the top follow the signs to "Nalidonisce pfeiler" rap stations.
Route DescriptionPitch 1:
The start is near a big block. An easy dihedral (V-)leads to a cozy ledge (20m).
A right traverse and then straight up on an easy slab for 6-7m. Another traverse to the right (V+) for 3-4m and again straight up in the dihedral (one V+ move)and easy exit to the anchors(40m).
Straight up the wall and behind the lip (VI) to a slab. WARNING: The belay to the right belongs to "Christoforos Agnoglou" VIII. Go straight into the dihedral. Exit to the left (V+) onto the small belay ledge (30m).
Right and up into another dihedral getting gradually harder (VI-, bolt), exit to the anchors (25m).
Straight up onto a slab (V) followed by an easy dihedral leading to the next belay anchor (20m) which is shared by "Christoforos Agnoglou".
Straight up into the dihedral (V), to a tree where we make a belay anchor. (25m).
Short easy climb to the large ledge above.
"Africana" is an aesthetics climbing route. The pitches are 6 and after the 6th pitch you have to scrambling (diff. III) if you want to reach the footpath for the abseil from another route (usually from the route "Kalidonische Pfeiler") I don't recommend this because you must know the place very well and you need about 20 min to reach the abseil anchors of "Kalidonische". I recommend to abseil down the same route. Note that the route is very well equipped at belay positions.
Also, the difficulty of the 1st pitch isn't V- but a real IV, and the key point of the route is the beginning of the 3rd pitch. Pay attention in the short left traverse just before the 3rd belay.
Essential GearA full set of stoppers, ½ set of cams or hexes (medium sizes), slings, 10 draws, 2x50m ropes.
Bolts at the first five belay anchors and few intermediate.