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il.rocciatoreRoute Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: july 2013  Sucess!

il.rocciatore

After being completely tired from a 12h round trip from the Oberaletschhütte to the Lötschentaler Breithorn the day before, odds were bad for the Aletschhorn. But things turned out the other way :)

Early start at 2 o'clock. Slow but steady approach to the SW ridge, well marked track. Snow conditions in the middle and upper part were very good, nice trace as well. Alone at the summit around 10 o'clock (only climbers on the mountain that day).

Descent of upper part in rappel (60m rope necessary to link all belay stakes, we only had 50m...), then easy on snow to about 3100m. Back at Oberaletschhütte at 6 o'clock in the evening. We stayed another night :p

Big mountain...glad I can look at it and know I've been up there :)
Posted Jul 15, 2013 4:59 am

Eelconlin Winter 2011  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 13, 2011

Eelconl

Nice powder untill 3400 meter.
Posted Mar 21, 2013 8:39 pm

CorvusSouth-west ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2012

Corvus

Climbed with andrea.it the south-west ridge from Oberaletsch hutte. Nice climbing, very long and demanding route; 7h45m and 1800 m (difference in level) to reach the summit, 7h for coming down.
Posted Sep 18, 2012 3:42 am

andrea.itoberaletsch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2012

andrea.it

Climbed the southwest ridge from Oberaletschhutte.
Very long journey. 7.15 hours for the summit. 8 hours for the descent.
Posted Sep 10, 2012 4:14 pm

boriskrielenRoute climbed: NE-ridge via Mittelaletschbiwak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2012

boriskrielen

Climbed the NE-ridge with Helmut Risse. Snow was extremely soft on the way back, which made the ridge traverse extra special...
Posted Aug 22, 2012 2:14 pm

FrankAletschhorn  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2010

Frank

Best weather possible. Great view from the summit. Watch out for rockfall on the way back to Cabane Oberaletsch.
Posted Aug 15, 2012 4:28 pm

andre hangaardHard but beautiful  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009

andre hangaard

Together with SP'er Sputnik we climbed the Aletschhorn via the Mittelaletschbiwak. We climbed from Fiescheralp, crossed the Aletschglacier and spent the night in the simple biwak. After an early start next morning we went up to the saddle, Aletschjoch and climbed via the normal route. On our return the conditions at the saddle were rather tricky due to the snowconditions. The second night also spent in the biwak. A beautiful but though climb in a remote place of the Aletsch region during a weekend with outstanding weather. Warm and sunny!
Posted Aug 28, 2009 9:12 am

JanVanGenkFrom Mittelaletschbiwak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009

JanVanGenk

Climbed with a friend in not so perfect conditions. The weather was rather unstable and closed totally in when we returned from the summit. Knee-high powder snow on some places. Spuring was rather tiring. I dropped my walking pole from the summit and had to recover it afterwards by traversing a slope with fresh snow up to my hips. Going back to the Aletschjoch via a narrow ridge was very tricky as snow had become wet by then, and the spur we had made was completely melt off. My friend slipped away on that ridge twice, luckily we were using a short rope technique...it took lots of concentration to reach the Aletschjoch. By then it was a total white-out and we had some route finding problems. At some point my friend fell into a crevasse up to his waist and dropped his ice axe into that crevasse. Then we tried to recover his axe (it was laying on a snow bridge a few meters down in the crevasse) but to no avail. We were rather waisted when we reached the bivouac hut. What a day!
Posted Jul 14, 2009 12:40 pm

FlachlandtirolerSW-ridge (normal route from Oberaletsch hut)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008
Long but rewarding ascent to the Oberaletsch hut, which still lies far away from the peak. Most of the upper SW ridge still was under good snow so few climbing or ice passages. Warmth + no wind on the summit, stayed >1h on top. Back at the hut on 4pm and stayed there for another night due to incoming thunderstorm. Saw only two other teams that day; next day no one tackled the Aletschhorn from the hut unless weather was fine.
Posted Sep 4, 2008 7:03 am

mulidivareseNW ridge: what a mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008

mulidivarese

From Bettmeralp we crossed the glatcher at Roti Chumma. And we reached the Mittelaletschbiwak in a snow storm (5:30).
Next mornin with a perfect blue ski we reached the top (4:40m, too much snow very soft). Then the incredible long way back.
Perfect day. A pieace of hymalaya
Valerio, Marco, Jolanda
Posted Aug 25, 2008 5:30 am

CyrillAletschhorn 4195m  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006

Cyrill

Great Tour to Aletschhorn 4195m.

my picture are here: Link to Aletschhorn 4195m
Posted Nov 8, 2007 5:06 am

Trevor CardFrom Oberaletschhutte
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2006

Trevor Card

As my first attempt at a 4000M peak this one beat me! It's a hard slog at PD+. :-(
Posted Jul 17, 2006 12:39 pm

garaventaRoute Climbed: from Oberaletschhütte to summit and return Date Climbed: 20 August 2005  Sucess!

garaventa

normal route 6,5 hours to summit
Posted Nov 18, 2005 3:21 am

bbirtleRoute Climbed: Bettmeralp -> Mittelaletschiwak -> Summit Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2005  Sucess!

bbirtle

VERY long approach done in the heat of midday left us both exhausted. Early morning wake up and my partner seriously lagging, ditched her, continued alone. Took turns making tracks through about 60cm fresh on the ardurous ridge on the way to the big plataeu below the false summit. Wind almost blowing us off the whole way, and very cold.



Got to the steep bit below the false summit -- definitely the crux point of the climb -- to find a lot of crevass danger and one really nasty bergshurd. Continue cautiously but quickly fall into one! Fortunately a small one -- just about 50cm wide, but @#$ing scary! So waited a long time for another guy who had ditched his partner only to find he left the rope behind as did I! So we both continued stupidly, but at least not alone.



Difficult to cross the bergshurnd with two different routes possible -- we pick the right one. Bad move -- very hard verglass that gets steeping. VERY touch-and-go especially on the decent -- left route said to be much easier. From there, easy sailing to the summit (sailing among hidden crevasses though). Don't try this at home, kids.
Posted Jul 7, 2005 12:31 pm

erik_ravenstijnRoute Climbed: aletschgletscher-mittelaletschbivak Date Climbed: 29 july 2004
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2004

erik_ravenstijn

What an experience!
This is a really great mountain to climb, with a great satisfaction when you have done it. Did the normal way (east ridge/slopes) from the Mittel-Aletsch bivouac. Take care for possible ice/stone avalanches above the Mittel-Aletsch bivouac. When we were there, huge blocks of ice had come down! Some pics at my site: www.climbingtours.net
Posted Mar 12, 2005 4:18 pm

benhilRoute Climbed: North east Date Climbed: 15 august 1996  Sucess!

benhil

Nice mountain in not so nice weather
Posted Aug 15, 2003 3:52 am

Mathias ZehringRoute Climbed: ski route from Mittelaletschbiwak Date Climbed: May 28th 2003  Sucess!

Mathias Zehring

superb trip into an almost lonely corner of the Bernese Alps. It took us 3 days: one to go to the Mittelaletsch bivuoac hut from Bettmeralp (very long time to carry the ski, no snow on the Aletsch glacier), the second for climbing the summit (as described by alpenkalb's route, very exhausting as some parts are too narrow or too steep to go with ski, so we had to carry them again) and the third for returning into civilization.
Posted May 31, 2003 1:25 am

schadikRoute Climbed: NW ridge via the Dreikhorn and down the SW face. Date Climbed: Spring 2000  Sucess!

schadik

Great tour although the skies spend most of the day on your pack.
Posted Nov 23, 2001 1:58 am

UlrichPrinzRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: June 2001  Sucess!

UlrichPrinz

Great conditions. Wall was much easier

than described in the guidebook. Lots of snow

covered most creveasses. Started at about 2

in the morning from Hollandia Hut, and after

the top we returned on the ridge to the Sattelhorn

back to the hut. Very nice round trip !
Posted Oct 30, 2001 4:13 am

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