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AlbertoRampiniFerrari Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 1998


A magnificent line on South West Face. The route is also named Via dei Ragni - Spiders' Route - the famous Club in Lecco.
Posted May 13, 2011 9:35 am

GidoFrench Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010


Same for me ;-) Fantastic climb !
Impressed by the collapsed mushroom above the Ferrari route.
Posted Jul 14, 2010 1:22 pm

LCFrench Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010


Lots of bruises from falling ice. Weather was really bad as well, but we had a small window of opportunity which we took and was able to summit. A long hard day.
Posted Jun 25, 2010 10:34 am

malediaFrench Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2007


Awesome but a busy route!
Posted Aug 22, 2009 2:12 pm

patascentFrench Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2009


Fantastic climb. Climbed with Adrian Ballinger (Alpenglow Expeditions) and Brian DeCamp of Boulder, Co.
Posted Aug 2, 2009 1:35 am

ChrisHunleyFrench Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2008


Beautiful mountain that I didn't get a glimpse of until after the climb (remianed hidden in the clouds for the majority of my time at Col Camp). 10 climbers summitted that day.
Posted Mar 27, 2009 5:11 pm

corinaFerrari route
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008
I have been this summer (july-august) in Peru. Alpamayo was on my to-do list, but I had an unpleasant surprise. The Ferrari route was closed and it seems that will stay closed for some time. It has a big snow mushroom on top and avalanches are frecquent. The French Direct was to hard for me, so I have to settle for Quitaraju.
Posted Sep 4, 2008 12:59 pm

Brad MastrosFrench Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2008

Brad Mastros

Climbed via the French Direct with Chris Johnson. Two snow pitches followed
by 5 ice. The descent was easy because all of the V-threads were already in place.
A stunning mountain.
Posted Jul 23, 2008 1:29 pm

KevinCraigFrench Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2006


Climbed with Doug Shepherd on a multi-objective expedition organized by Dave Cooper (thanks Dave!). A couple of simul-climbing pitches up knee-deep snow above the 'schrund then about 7 pitches of brilliant ice to just below the summit. Last half pitch steepened to 80+ degrees on crappy snow with poor tool purchase - probably harder than the whole rest of the route. Traversed over to the top of the Ferrari (*scary* knife edge ridge) and rapped from in-situ 3 picket anchor on the summit ridge and v-threads from there on.
Posted May 21, 2008 1:07 am

mtnman455Via French Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007


Climbed with T. Haines. First 2.5 pitches after bergshrund were good snow then it turned into ice at flutings. First pitch of ice was short and about 75* at most and not very great ice, but not bad. Seven pitches on ice total. Last six pitches had amazing, very plastic ice. Last pitch had a short section of 80*-85* ice for 20´ then the second half of the pitch was steep snow that tools didn´t really hold on, but a little balance gets you to the top. Amazing mountain. Amazing route. Ferrari was closed due to a huge cornice on the summit ridge. Pictures and TR will be added soon.
Posted Jul 30, 2007 5:08 pm

alexclimbRoute Climbed: Ferrari
Date Climbed: May 28, 2007


Climbed almost to the snow mushroom and found the passage to the summit ridge closed.. Upper part of the route was not in very good condition for belaying.
Posted Jul 18, 2007 2:01 pm

ripper333french direct
.. 2 day trek to base camp.. next day to high camp.. up around 3am ...incredible route .. weather was crap... thanks edgar
Posted Jun 16, 2007 1:20 am

highiceferrari  Sucess!
left early for another try. first try on day before there were climbers above us and felt this to be unsafe. glad we backed off...a guy broke his shoulder from falling ice from a team above him. The team that dislodged the ice actually aborted their chance for the summit in order to help the team of the injured climber to get him down before dark.
Posted Jan 30, 2007 8:51 pm

chrisferroFerrari Route, 2000  Sucess!


Connie Martinez and I summited in June of 2000, during an 11 day mini-expedition in to Alpamayo. We hired an arriero at Cashapampa with 2 mules, and took 2 days to hike in to basecamp at about 14,000 feet. Then we did a carry up to 16,000 on day 4, then moved up on day 5. Day 6 we got on the snow and carried everything up to the high camp at 17,800. That was a pretty difficult 8 hours or so. I remember the terrain was in some cases steeper than anything we encountered on the actual route to the summit. Day 7 we rested, and then the next day we summitted behind a party of 3 Spaniards who were knocking a little ice down on us all day (and one of them lost a headlamp, which must have hit us on it's way down). The route itself was no problem, about 6 pitches of easy ice from the bergshrund (which was a little tricky to cross) to the top. We didn't place much pro at all, just clipped fixed gear. The day after, we took another rest day, then went all the way down to basecamp. On Day 11 our arriero showed up and we went back to Cashapampa and Huaraz. Beautiful mountain...
Posted Jan 8, 2007 7:24 pm

Tom FralichBasque-French  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006

Tom Fralich

Summited with Adam Jones (SP member flatnose) in a total white-out after waiting for 4 days at Col Camp for a partial clearing in the weather. The route was almost entirely water ice, which we climbed in 6 pitches. We then continued along the ridge to the true summit. The hardest part was getting to the face, breaking trail through all the deep snow that accumulated while we waited in Col Camp. Definitely a great climb on a great mountain, even with no views from the summit.
Posted Aug 2, 2006 6:25 pm

ElCapitanKoolAidNot crowded  Sucess!


The crowds were not part of Alpamayo at that time yet. I climbed it with a guy that I met in Huaraz.
Posted May 22, 2006 3:58 am

tetontomFerrari  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1998


Still to this day my favorite alpine-ice route! We were lucky to climb on a day with NO other parties on the route. Could be quite hazardous with groups above. Quick descent, all on fixed abseil points. I'd like to give the N Ridge a try someday.
Posted Apr 19, 2006 2:49 am

snocatS/W Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1998


Beautiful climb!
Posted Apr 14, 2006 4:46 pm

kabernicolaRoute Climbed: Hispano-Chilena Date Climbed: July 1998  Sucess!


First ascent of this route that goes by the right hand gully of the french one. 16 hours, camp to camp. Dificulty 80º, m4. Descent by the italian Route.

Posted Jan 25, 2006 7:08 am

AndinistaRoute Climbed: Vasco Francesa Date Climbed: 20 July 2003  Sucess!


Ufff... Wonderful hill and also hard route..., specially if it is not called on to puntear. For that they are down, in the relief, the caidas ones of pieces of ice can return the dangerous and disagreeable ascent. The summit is very thin and costs to move from a side to another one, better to seat and to enjoy the Vista.
Posted Mar 11, 2005 2:08 pm

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