Grade: 5.10a / 6a or 5.1a / 6b+
Distance: 20 meters / 65 feet
Dairy Farm Quarry is located at the very Northern part of the Bukit Timah nature preserve. You can take the same public transportation but continue until you reach the the Dairy Farms Estate area. There is a bus stop about 100 meters before the intersection and the drivers were always willing to let us know where to depart the bus. Use the pedestrian overpass and head to the intersection of Upper Bukit Timah Expressway and Dairy Farm Road. Turn right and head up the road about 200 meters. There are two small asphalt roads, take the one that runs perpendicular to the Dairy Farm Road. The asphalt road eventually turns into a dirt road and narrows a bit. The quarry is between a 1,000 and 1500 meters off the main road. You are surrounded by thick forest and vegatation along the path and it is not wise to venture off the path (big snakes) as one of our climbers found out. As you enter the quarry it is split into two separate formations. The formation on the left hand side has is line with thick vegatation and trees. There is the large break in the trees and the section of rock protruding through is the Direct section. Continue down the trail and after about 400 meters you will pass the ABCD section (there is quite a bit of moss along the base of this area. Around the corner from the ABCD section the quarry will concave in and go away from the path. There are several very large boulder you must scramble over and you will reach the American Pie section. There is not much vegatation close to the rock in this area and the routes are moss free.
This is the first bolted route in the section and it is located at the bottom with the rest of the routes sloping up and to the left. There are two variations to the American Pie route. The 5.10a /6a route you will climb to the right hand side of the five positioned bolts along the route and you may use the coirner to the right of the bolts. The 5.11a / 6b+ variation dectates that you remain to the left hand side of the bolts away from the corner and climb on the face of the route. The overall length of this route is 20 meters or 65 feet. The bolts and anchor on this route are in excellent condition.
1. 50 or 60 Meter Rope.
2. Five quick draws
3. Couple of locking biners for anchor.
4. Helmet (did not experience or view too many potential hazards in this section)
There are no restroom facilities or running water of any type in or near this quarry. There is a trash recepticle by the bus stop. Please take all your trash with you when you leave. Climb On!