Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.53330°N / 35.46670°E |
Route Type:
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Deep snow in winter |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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Very deep snow in winter. |
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Approach
Start from Erciyes Hut and pitch your tent at Cobanini. Cobanini is a clear camping place for the eastern routes. It takes approx. two hours from the hut following the ski lifts and you can find water in summer.
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Route Description
Route is as seen at the photo. Starts very clearly and there is no trick. But falling rocks can be hazardous in summer. In winter, snow generally doesn't freeze on this route. You must be very careful about fatal avalanches. Keep away from the rocks. Rocks are incredibly loose and you don't need to climb them. After the gully, the line reaches the ridge which is seperating the main gully (Evil's gully) on the east face. Follow the ridge and continuing gullies and get the top.
It is not a well known route but it is a direct , fast and beautiful line.
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Essential Gear
Helmet, ice axe, crampons. No need a rope.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
nurettin - Jun 24, 2004 4:43 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentEspecially in late winter and early spring, the snowstorms can be brutal. Erciyes is an exposed mountain and there is no obstacle for the atmospheric movements of central Anatolia. Altough there are lift lines on the east side of the mountain, it can be very hard to find the way when you going down.
A lot of tent wreckage counted because of this storms. So pitch you tent as bombproof!
LS - Aug 22, 2009 10:16 am - Hasn't voted
waterthere was no water in highcamp in august 2009. I could see some campers who had to walk for 30 minutes and almost 200 meters gain of elevation before they found a small pocket of dark snow !!! Bring all your water from below during summer...