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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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31.17536°N / 7.82545°W |
Season:
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Winter |
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Angour North Face
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Overview
The north face of Angour is a classic route, whether in summer or winter. It is possible to camp on the col underneath the north face, however, if the wind springs up there is no protection. If you do camp here you can explore the numerous routes on the north face that get little to no traffic.
Getting There
From Marrakech head up the Ourika valley, past Tnine Ourika in the direction of Setti Fatma. Just before Aghbalou turn right up the steep hill. Follow this all the way to Ouikaimeden, well known being one of the two skiing arean in Morocco. From the top car park leave your vehicle (In summer you can continue on to the base of Angour.) There are a number of options from here - either follow the track which winds towards Tizi-n-Eddi. From here it is necessary to descend back to the main valley and climb the steep valley dropping from the col at the base of the north face. Alternatively, you can trek up the main valley to the same point as above, however, the snow can be deep, therefore hard going! Another option is to climb the ridgeline north-east of the car park all the way to the col.
Route From The Col
The scree directly in front of you is climbed, the top of which is blocked by a band of rocks. Either climb the gully on the right and traverse back left at the top, or climb the rocks directly. There are old pitons in place (dodgy!), there are places for protection. From the top of this climb up and left to the obvious small platform. From here there is a small ledge, which narrows down to a delicate step across a large drop (rope up). At the end of the ledge is a classic alpine ridge, which may need roping up on the bottom pitches, depending on the parties experience. The ridge gradually merges with the rock face on the right, an easy scramble takes you to the top of the north peak. The southern peak is seperated from you by a gully.
Accommodation
There are a number of hotels and hostels in Oukaimeden, so an extended stay is more than possible. Though the least expensive option is with the Club Alpine Francais, the rest being somewhat over-priced!