This approach is perhaps the most difficult of any climb in the Cascades! Park your car along the west side of the road on the edge of Icicle Creek Buttress, along a steep step below the obvious delichened slab. (This is close to the north end of the buttress) Now walk 3 feet to the start of the climb. Make sure to wipe the sweat from your brow before beginning. :-)
This route features 3 fun, varied pitches of 5.9 slab climbing with no approach and is a good route to do if you only have an hour or two.
Pitch #1 - 5.9 - Start this pitch by scrambling up the blocky section to the steeper bulge. Pull over the bulge (5.8) and gain the clean slab above. Follow the obvious lighter colored path up the slabs traversing to the left at times. About half way up jamb the nice left angling fingercrack (5.7) to gain the slab above. Perform the thin crux section, then traverse to the right and up to gain the chains. (130 feet)
Pitch #2 - 5.9 - Start in the lower angled crack to the left and move up to the base of the clean slab. Work through a couple tricky 5.9 sections and keep moving up to the ledge with the tree on your left. (100 feet)
Pitch #3 - 5.8 - Drop down into the gulley on your left to gain the obvious crack angling up and to the left. Jamb this (5.6) until at the base of the steeper slab above. Work through the thin crux slab section moving right then left and belay at the top of the buttress. (120 feet)
Down - The best option is to rappel the route. You will need 2 ropes or an 80 meter. All belays are equipped with nice chains on 1/2" stainless bolts. The other option is to scramble down to the right. I didn't try this.
2 50 meter ropes
1 set of cams from .3 to 2.5 inches
24 and 48 inch slings
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