Goat Dome Falls

Overview

This nice multipitch ice climb in Leavenworth offers 6 long pitches of continuous climbing just left of Goat Dome. This climb offers loads of moderate ice with easy belays, a simple approach, and an easy descent. Recommended.

Getting There

Park at the Snow Creek Wall parking lot then descend towards the river. Hike the trail towards Snow Creek Wall until you hit the irrigation channel. Now turn left and walk along the irrigation channel for 5 minutes until under the start of the falls. Hike up the snow slope to the base. Total approach time is about 15 minutes.

Route Description

Pitch #1 - WI2 - Climb directly up the moderate rolling ice and belay at one of 2 trees on the left. The higher tree has a sling. 195 feet

Pitch #2 - WI2 - Climb up more ice staying to the right at the mixed band. Belay on the top of the mixed band. 195 feet

Pitch #3 - WI2 - Climb directly up the ice and belay at the base of the steep crux waterfall. 120 feet

Pitch #4 - WI3+ - Climb up the steep waterfall through the mixed band using ice and rock pro. Exit unto the lower angled ice above and belay where feasible. 130 feet

Pitch #5 - WI2 - Climb up more moderate ice until you run out of rope at the base of the upper falls. 195 feet

Pitch #6 - WI2+ - Climb up the upper falls and belay at the large tree on your right. 175 feet

Now scramble up to the top of the wall.

For the descent you have 2 options:

1. Climb and traverse to the right to a large ledge then do 1 double rope rappel and 2 single rope rappels to reach the gulley below. Downclimb this easy gulley back to your packs.

2. Climb up and all the way over Goat Dome then downclimb the gulley on the far side back to your packs.

Essential Gear

8 - 10 screws
1 set of nuts
A couple angles
Long slings
60 meter rope or doubles

Note

This route would be a fun solo for an experienced ice climber.

Images

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