Incredible route. Steep initial pitches with great exposure on the last few pitches up the arete. Solid rock with good pro.
Contour under the north face of Arrow to the Arrow/Electric col on the east side. Hike boulder field to obvious ramp at he base of the buttress.
There seems to be a couple of options. Midway up the ramp start up a dihedral (5.8) for a full 200ft to a ledge on the left. Pitch 2 goes up the steep slab face to the left of an overhung dihedral (very rotten) up to a steep/overhung flake system for another 200ft. 400ft of easy slabs will bring you a 5.6 pitch (200ft) that will put you on the arete. 400-500ft of 5.6/7 climbing along a very exposed arete will bring you to the summit. Several gendarms will need to be climbed around. From the summit rappel down to the notch (two ropes needed and bring an extra cordalette to sling the summit block. the old anchors appeared to be chewed apart by rodents). From the notch it appears to be lower to mid 5th class climbing to the top for 500ft. If a storm breaks (this happened to us) it is possible to descent the couloir facing north from the notch. This requires technical downclimbing on VERY loose rock. Descend skiers right as far as it is possible down the couloir (this will be most of the way). The couloir will cliff out, but, it is possible to rappel with two ropes to another ramp (a two nut anchor was left there). Easy walking down the ramp to the boulder field.
2 sets of nuts and camalot 0.5-2 worked well but the initial pitches needed to be runout. Knifeblades would be handy if you don't wanna runout the 5.8 pitches.
Add External Links text here.
"Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling. There are rules."