ApproachFrom the Biwakschachtel follow the ridge for about 100m. Then go South on the glacier and keep on same height until you reach the base of the Berglerrinne (Bergler couloir). This will take you about 30-45 min.
Route DescriptionStart early at night (2 am), especially when the temperatures are high. Be sure to reach the Glocknerhorn before 7 am. After sunrise temperatures rise quickly and stonefall will make your climb very dangerous. Be sure to wear a helmet and to look upward for falling stones and ice.
At the base of the couloir cross the bergschrund. This can be quite difficult, the steepness can be 80° and the ice conditions may be very bad when warm. Climb through a narrow couloir (few meters broad), which becomes less narrow after 20m. Then climb about 10 pitches. Be sure to make a stand on a safe place, i.e. were stonefall is less! At about 100m before the ridge you can either go straight up (slightly to the left) or follow the couloir more to the right. The second option is the safer one when conditions are bad and/or when the sun has risen because stonefall is less. You reach the snow-ridge after a total of about 12 pitches (of 50 meters). Then follow the ridge (150m) up to the summit. This can be quite difficult when icy, another option is to descend the Grögerrinne to the Teischnitzkees and to the Stüdlhütte. (keep to the right, avalanches!)
Essential GearFor the couloir: You'll need a rope of 2 x 50m, crampons and ice axes. Carabiners and some draws, some ice-screws for the bergschrund. In the rinne itself you'll only need ice-screws in icy conditions, otherwise stands are made with steckpickel. Don't forget your helmet!
Ridge: slings, two or three medium-sized friends, biners,...
Miscellaneous InfoThe biwakschachtel itself can be reached from the Pasterzenkees. It is a beautiful climb of about 1000 m (3-4h) on snow, firn and ice. Be aware of stonefall and crevasses!
In the biwakschachtel there is place for 8 people, allthough you can "sleep" there with more (if you like each other). It can be overcrowded during weekends and some people have to spend the night outside (sleeping bag!) We found a lot of garbage inside and allso some canned and dried food, gasrecipients (full!!) candles, lighters. Water is not available, so you'll have to melt snow. Please take your garbage with you and use the toilet (which is an iron cable to sit on behind te biwak) in stead of just taking a dump in front of the entrance door.
8 Blankets and 8 pillows are available, some foam matrasses (left behind) are also present, but it's quite warm inside.
links on the webbergsteigen.at
a rescue on the Mayerlrampe
A solo attempt