Overview
Betty and Ray's Adventure is an enjoyable multi-pitch climb off the beaten path. It is located on the
Upper Sun Tower in Unaweep Canyon, western Colorado.
The rock is granite, and the route is usually climbed in 3 pitches. There are no fixed anchors on the route, and you can choose from many different variations. The descent is walk off.
The "Grand Junction Rock
Rock Climbs of Unaweep Canyon and adjacent areas" by KC Baum rates it as Grade II, but we climbed that in less than 2 hrs, so I gave a rating I.
Unaweep Canyon from the Upper Sun Tower |
Getting There
Betty and Ray's Adventure is located in Unaweep Canyon on the Upper Sun Tower.
Upper and Lower Sun Towers - our climb starts at the top of the notchbetween Upper and Lower Sun Towers | Unaweep Map |
The directions for Unaweep canyon are described in the main Unaweep Canyon page.
The approach trail for the Lower and Upper Sun Tower starts close to the mile marker 135 on Highway 141 (the only highway) going through the canyon. There is a small pullout parking lot located 0.25 miles east of the mile marker 135. The approach climbing trail is well signed, and along this trail are little signs pointing to different formations. The distance is about 0.35 miles, hiking time 15-20 min. The climb starts at the top of the notch between Lower and Upper Sun Tower.
Elevation: 7262 feet
Some Images from the approach trail
Route Description
First Pitch | | | This pitch is about 35 to 40 meters long. Begins in the large left-facing dihedral. This is actually the most "difficult" section of the climb, it does get easier above it. You will see many small ledges to make your anchors. |
Second Pitch | | | This pitch is about 40 meters long. Follow the right side of the arete. Many different variations possible. This pitch seemed easier, about 5.5. Again, you will have to make your anchors on nice ledges you will be crossing. |
Third Pitch | | | This pitch is about 45 meters long and only the lower section is climbing. It becomes more of a low 5th class scramble near the top. Again, no anchors here, but plenty of possibilities, including large trees. |
Essential Gear
Descent
Rock shoes, harness, rope (50 meter sufficient), protection. I forgot my camalots in the car, so lead only with nuts and hexes, used mostly large and medium sized ones. You do need gear to anchor yourself. Long slings are useful (I placed a sling around several large rocks and chockstones).
You should carry your approach shoes with you since the hike = descent back is about 15 min long.
External Links
Mountain Project description
Climbing Weather Unaweep