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Betty and Ray's Adventure 5.6

Betty and Ray's Adventure 5.6

Betty and Ray\'s Adventure 5.6

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.78359°N / 108.63353°W

Object Title: Betty and Ray's Adventure 5.6

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: Liba Kopeckova

Created/Edited: May 30, 2011 / May 30, 2011

Object ID: 719173

Hits: 2235 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Betty and Ray's Adventure is an enjoyable multi-pitch climb off the beaten path. It is located on the Upper Sun Tower in Unaweep Canyon, western Colorado.
The rock is granite, and the route is usually climbed in 3 pitches. There are no fixed anchors on the route, and you can choose from many different variations. The descent is walk off.
The "Grand Junction Rock Rock Climbs of Unaweep Canyon and adjacent areas" by KC Baum rates it as Grade II, but we climbed that in less than 2 hrs, so I gave a rating I.

Unaweep canyon
Unaweep Canyon from the Upper Sun Tower

Getting There

Betty and Ray's Adventure is located in Unaweep Canyon on the Upper Sun Tower.

Sun Towers
Upper and Lower Sun Towers
- our climb starts at the top of the notch
between Upper and Lower Sun Towers
Unaweep Map
Unaweep Map

The directions for Unaweep canyon are described in the main Unaweep Canyon page.

The approach trail for the Lower and Upper Sun Tower starts close to the mile marker 135 on Highway 141 (the only highway) going through the canyon. There is a small pullout parking lot located 0.25 miles east of the mile marker 135. The approach climbing trail is well signed, and along this trail are little signs pointing to different formations. The distance is about 0.35 miles, hiking time 15-20 min. The climb starts at the top of the notch between Lower and Upper Sun Tower.
Elevation: 7262 feet

Some Images from the approach trail

along the trail
Approach to Lower Sun Tower
Lizards everywhere
another wooden man...

Route Description

First Pitch
Start Pitch 1
1st Pitch higher up
This pitch is about 35 to 40 meters long. Begins in the large left-facing dihedral. This is actually the most "difficult" section of the climb, it does get easier above it. You will see many small ledges to make your anchors.
Second Pitch
2nd pitch - scramble
Blooming cacti
This pitch is about 40 meters long. Follow the right side of the arete. Many different variations possible. This pitch seemed easier, about 5.5. Again, you will have to make your anchors on nice ledges you will be crossing.
Third Pitch
3rd pitch
And at the top
This pitch is about 45 meters long and only the lower section is climbing. It becomes more of a low 5th class scramble near the top. Again, no anchors here, but plenty of possibilities, including large trees.

Essential Gear

Nuts and hexes
Descent marked by a cairn

Rock shoes, harness, rope (50 meter sufficient), protection. I forgot my camalots in the car, so lead only with nuts and hexes, used mostly large and medium sized ones. You do need gear to anchor yourself. Long slings are useful (I placed a sling around several large rocks and chockstones).
You should carry your approach shoes with you since the hike = descent back is about 15 min long.

External Links

Mountain Project description
Climbing Weather Unaweep


along the trailUnaweep canyonApproach to Lower Sun TowerSun Towers3rd pitch another wooden man...Descent marked by a cairn
Start Pitch 1 Lizards everywhere1st Pitch higher up1st pitch Lower Sun TowerUpper Sun TowerAnd at the top
[ View Gallery - 6 More Images ]