Bloodline, 5.11a, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Although Bloodline is not featured in the local guide as a recommended route, it is one of the better short mixed routes in Red Rock.  Bloodline is located between Next Century (5.10d) and Deep Space (5.9) out onto the face to the left of the chimney system for Deep Space.  Next Century, just a two pitch climb itself, contains one of my favorite mixed varnish pitches in the park.  To combine Next Century and Bloodline for a morning or afternoon of shaded climbing makes a lot of sense. 

A competent team can solo the first two pitches (5th).  The third pitch of Bloodline is reminiscent of Next Century’s idealistic second pitch except it is mostly bolted (I placed one trad piece at the end of approximately 190’).  They are both tall pitches on black varnish involving sustained 5.10 face climbing on excellent rock.  Bloodline’s fourth (final) pitch offers one of the better 5.10+ finger splitter cracks in Red Rock.  Although Handren's guide lists this pitch as 5.11a, most competent trad climbers would consider this pitch 5.10+ at most.  You can easily place over a dozen pieces on this plug and go 150’ pitch.  Ironically, Handren's guide (2020) had information that the third pitch was 5.9 but the consensus on MP.com is that it is as challenging as the 4th pitch and discuss it being “spicy”.  In the end they give it a 5.10 rating which I concur with.

Park at the Pine Creek pull out on the Red Rock loop road. Hike in along Pine Creek trail as you would for Dark Shadows.  Stay on the regular trail for Dark Shadows and drop down and cross the wash once you recognize the triangular lower hill/wall that is easy to identify on the northeast wall of Mescalito. Deep Space starts on the right side of the triangle and Bloodline starts up the left side. 

Route Description

1^st-2^nd Pitches- 300’-5^th Class/ Drop your packs at the base and solo or rope up for the first two pitches that land you atop the triangle at a ledge below the beautifully varnished and bolted third pitch. 

3rd Pitch- 190’-5.10/ Follow the many, but spaciously placed, bolts.  The crux climbing is through the first 50’.  After clipping a few bolts, you come to a technical mantle.  You can traverse slightly right to find a side pull to assist.  Eventually the steepness abates.  Continue up a slab to the right of a right facing corner and place a medium piece in a roof above and pull up and onto a ledge to the left with a fixed chain rap below the finger splitter above.

4th Pitch- 150’-5.11a/ Most consider this pitch closer to 5.10+ than 5.11-.  It is a stellar 150’ finger crack system with a single bolt in the middle to assist with the transition from the left crack to the right crack.  Takes all the finger pieces you want to place.  There are plenty of foot rests with exceptional climbing in between.  The small roof above is relatively easy to pull in comparison to the climbing below, more hands than fingers.  Fixed rap above the roof. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Two double rope rappels back over the 3^rd and 4^th pitches. You can utilize a variety of slung raps from there to reach the bottom. The west side (Deep Space) of the triangle would make a cleaner rap, but several trees are slung down the east side as well.

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes.  Single to #2. Double #.2 to #.75.  Triple #.3 to #.5.  Wires or a few off-set cams allow you to sew up that 4th pitch all you want.  It is 150' of plug and go.  I only placed one piece on pitch 2.  Helmets advised for the scramble portion of the first two pitches.  In the fall, gets mostly all shade.