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Both ferratas

 
Both ferratas

Page Type: Route

Location: Dolomites/Sexten Group,, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.64543°N / 12.31808°E

Object Title: Both ferratas

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Hard and easy ferrata

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Sep 8, 2007 / Sep 9, 2007

Object ID: 334447

Hits: 2803 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Getting There

 
Handdrawn map of the...
An overview map.

The route starts by the hut . It is approachable from the hut Drei-Zinnen-Huette / Rifugio Locatelli, 2405m in about one hour below the south faces of Drei Zinnen to the pass Paternsattel/Forcella Lavaredo, 2454m (between Paternkofel and Drei Zinnen) and then below the west face of Paternkofel/Monte Paterno, 2744m to the hut.

Hard ferrata - Sentiero delle Scalette

 
On the ladders to Toblinger Knoten / Torre di Toblin, 2617m.
Many airy ladders.

For hard ferrata you have to go from the hut Rifugio Locatelli around a mountain Sasso di Sesto/Sextner Stein, 2539m. You can cross its slopes around the west side or around the east side. Your goal is the start of ferrata in on NW side of the Toblinger Knoten / Torre di Toblin. Below the west face on the west ridge you prepare for climbing by an old military bunker.

From mentioned place you continue in the NE direction over the airy shelf to the start of ferrata. Ferrata is not soo long but you have to be strong in arms because you climb in full vertical. The via ferrata follows the historical route of the soldiers to the summit and is ca. 160 meters long and has 17 ladders. You can see on your way up some old rotten wood ladders and material-depots. By Sebastian Hamm. Yes it is really amazing how hard it was for soldiers to put there so many wood ladders.

Ferrata is very nice and it is hard because of airy climbing over the ladders. I will be more happy if there does not be so many ladders. You come to the summit from the north side.

You descend by an easy ferrata. The hard one is usually used for ascent.

Easy ferrata - Sentiero del Curato Militare Hosp

 
On the upper ridge of Toblinger Knoten / Torre di Toblin, 2619m.
On the upper airy ridge.

I will desribe it from the summit to the hut Rifugio Locatelli because it is usually used for descent.

From the summit you have to cross an airy ridge in the south direction and then you descend with help of iron cable over the east face. This approach is much easier then the hard ferrata. But it is also very airy.

When you come below the face you have to cross the long east slopes all the way back to hut. View from this route is really amazing so you are quickly by the hut.

Essential Gear

Good hiking shoes, helmet, self-secured system.

Images