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Boy Scout Rocks Routes
Route

Boy Scout Rocks Routes

 
Boy Scout Rocks Routes

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.88200°N / 121.913°W

Object Title: Boy Scout Rocks Routes

Route Type: Technical Rock Climbs

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.6 - 5.12

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dragger

Created/Edited: Jul 1, 2005 / Jul 22, 2005

Object ID: 165682

Hits: 6519 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Approach


The easiest way to get to Boy Scout Rocks is to enter Mount Diablo State Park from the south enterance. After passing the gate where you have to pay the fees, continue up the road for about a mile or so, like you're going up to the summit (but not that far). You can park at Gibraltar Rock or Rock City -- just pull off the side of the road. There are also some more established parking spots and a bathroom near the road itself. A narrow trail heads down from a couple of different places next to the road. This trail will wind down to the three tiers of the Boy Scout Rocks area. Note: there is often a plethora of Poison Oak plants here. Be careful.

Route Description


Boy Scout Rocks is a fun place to go and hone your technical rock climbing skills. It's quite sporty and easily accessable from the main road. During the winter this area generally has better weather than the rest of the Bay Area. Warning: It can be opressively hot during summer. The East Face of the Lower Tier is the best area, in my opinion, and houses perhaps one of the best 5.9 face climbs around --Amazing Face. I don't think I'll ever get tired of this climb! Earthcling, at 5.11b, can also be a nice aid bolt ladder. Ozone and Ozone Direct at 5.10c and 5.10d respectively, can be toproped and provide a great workout.

Names of Routes Location Grade Comments
Pebbly Face Upper Tier 5.10c ****
Chouinard's Crack Upper Tier 5.8 ***
Face Upper Tier 5.10a **
Pie Crust Upper Tier 5.11c **
Jungle Book West Face of Middle Tier 5.10d ****
In the Buckets West Face of Middle Tier 5.11c *****
Face West Face of Middle Tier 5.7 - 5.10 Many different lines exist
Crack West Face of Middle Tier 5.6 **
Betty's Beard Left North Face of Middle Tier 5.11b  
Betty's Beard Right North Face of Middle Tier 5.11a  
Face North Face of Lower Tier 5.10a *
Crack North Face of Lower Tier 5.7 **
Ozone East Face of Lower Tier 5.10c *****
Ozone Direct East Face of Lower Tier 5.10d *****
Godzilla East Face of Lower Tier 5.12X Bolted route that can be toproped but be ready for a swing.
Stegosaurus East Face of Lower Tier 5.10b ***
Diagonal Crack East Face of Lower Tier 5.10b ****
Face East Face of Lower Tier 5.11dR ***
Dinosaur East Face of Lower Tier 5.11b ***
Chimney East Face of Lower Tier 5.7 **
Amazing Face East Face of Lower Tier 5.9 *****
Bolt Route East FAce of Lower Tier 5.10b *****
Earthcling/Dire Blow East Face of Lower Tier 5.11b ****

Essential Gear


The Boy Scout Rocks area is almost all toproping with a few bolted climbs. The Lower Tier is the highest at about 90 feet tall. If you are planning on leading any of the sport routes, bring maybe 12 quick draws. Otherwise, if you are just planning on toproping, bring some medium and long slings and a few locking carabiners for setting up anchors. Note: Boy Scout Rocks are all sandstone. Long slings may be necessary to get out and over edges that have been gouged by ropes. In general, toprope routes have bolts at the top or easy access to trees.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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