First climbers went to Buoux in 1958. It became one of the top cliffs in France, in the eighties with routes opened by the best climbers at the time :
Jean-Claude Droyer, Patrick Edlinger, Jacky Godoffe...
Most of the French and European climbers came to fight with the major level 8 routes. Some weeks around 1000 climbers were visiting the cliff.
Nowadays fewer people go there, however it remains a fabulous site, with a very specific rock.
You can climb there almost all year long.
Note that there are only a few routes under level 5c.
A great cliff for good climbers !
Getting There and Staying...
From Avignon, drive East on road N7 for a few kilometers up to Chartreuse de Bonpas.
Keep straight ahead on road D22, which then becomes road N100.
Turn right on road D36 towards Bonnieux. Shortly after this village, turn left on road D943 until you reach Buoux, a few kilometers later.
57 kms in total.
Closest camp site :
Camping Caravaning Municipal
Tel : 04 90 75 86 14
Buoux is a very wide climbing site with 31 parts to discover.
You will find routes with up to 5 pitches. Usually around 30m per pitch.
It's all modern equipment.
FACE OUEST > 23 routes from 6b to 8b
RATIERE > 9 routes from 5c to 6c
LA DERIVE > 15 routes from 5b to 7c
SONGE > 10 routes from 6b to 7b+
AUTOROUTE > 11 routes from 5c to 8a
AIGUEBRUN (2-4 pitches) > 22 routes from 5b to 7a
EMORO > 13 routes from 5b to 6c
BEDA (1-4 pitches) > 23 routes 5b to 7a
DSF (1-4 pitches) > 19 routes from 5b to 7b+
PEPSICOMANE (1-4 pitches) > 19 routes from 5b to 7b+
PUBIS (1-3 pitches) > 10 routes from 5c to 7a
OK CAROLE > (1-2 pitches) > 11 routes from 5c to 7b
GVB (1-2 pitches) > 15 routes from 5c to 7b+
PGF (1-2 pitches) > 12 routes from 5b to 7b+
MUR ZAPPA > 24 routes from 5c to 7b
LES DIAMANTS (1-2 pitches) > 20 routes from 6b to 7c
SALINAS (1-2 pitches) > 21 routes from 6b to 7b
FAKIR (1-4 pitches) > 29 routes from 5b to 8a
EXCALIBUR (1-5 pitches) > 31 routes from 5c to 8b
SCORPION (1-2 pitches) > 15 routes from 5c to 8a
LA PLAGE (1-3 pitches) > 22 routes from 6b to 8b+
PILIER DES FOURMIS (1-4 pitches) > 11 routes from 5b to 8b
BAROUILLES (1-2 pitches) > 16 routes from 5b to 6c+
LA CROISETTE (1-2 pitches) > 22 routes from 6b to 7c+
LES DEVERS > 15 routes from 6c to 8b+
TCF (1-2 pitches) > 22 routes from 6a to 7c+
REVE (1-2 pitches) > 13 routes from 6a to 8a
NOMBRIL > 9 routes from 6a to 7b+
LE STYX > 18 routes from 6b to 7c+
NO MAN'S LAND > 13 routes from 7a to 8a
BOUT DU MONDE > 14 routes from 7a to 8c
Books, Maps & Weather
The best guidebook is :
Buoux, Topo-Guide d'Escalade
The best map is :
IGN Apt / PNR du Luberon (1:25.000)
And for Weather forecast :
Meteo France > Buoux