OverviewOne of the first 5th class routes in the Menagerie. Put up in 1959 by Pat Callis and Gerry Honey. A super classic old school 5.7 route. As of May 2007 I replaced all 12 bolts on the route with Jim Anglin, bolts courtesy of the ASCA.
Getting ThereOnce at Rooster Rock make your way to the south face. This route begins on the obvious weakness to the right of the cave of "Old Flakes" when looking up.
Route DescriptionP1 - 5.7 R - 33M - This pitch is not nearly as run out as the rest but it is still slightly run out, 7 bolts in 130 feet of climbing. You can tell the start of this route by the newly scrubbed area with one old bolt right next to a bomber #3 cam placement. Follow line of bolts up and to the right then head left to a 2 bolt belay below the upper cave. Mind rope drag, use some long slings. (7 bolts + possible #3 cam and some small nuts)
P2 - 5.5 R - 20M - From the belay head out right onto the SE face look around for the first bolt. From that bolt head straight up to the second bolt on then to a 2 bolt belay. It is hard to spot the first bolt, you must traverse straight out and right. There is a bolt stright up and left before that bolt but it is and old bolt and on the route "Traditional Notions of Fair Play and Substantial Justice" 5.9 R, it is possible to use this bolt and make a slightly harder varition to the pitch at more like 5.6 R, also more direct. (2 Bolts)
P3 - 5.4 R - 35M - From the belay head up and right into the dirty chimney finess your way up this mossy gem then pop through a hole to where you exit out and join the regular route. Belay from eye bolt or continue to the summit. (cams #3 and #4, plus sling for tree, many climbers don't bother lugging gear for this pitch but this pitch is still dirty, though easier than the 2 before)
Note- It is possible to do this route as a sport climb by only climbing pitches 1 and 2. From P1 you can get down with 1 60m rope, and from P2 you can get down with 2 60M ropes or get back to th belay atop P1 with 1 60M rope as the chains are set up to do because of the angle of the rappel, this is why the chains may look funky but it makes sense to get back to the top of P1.