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Route 1 Regular North Face 5.4 R
As the rooster rock trail passes closest to the rock, follow a path south to the north face. The easiest route stays on the face just right of a shallow corner. Traverse back left toward the top of the corner when holds allow. Protection is sparse until reaching huge eye bolts, remnants of the old lookout ladder. Follow lower angle rock to a huge chimney climb this to the site of the old lookout then turn right for the summit. Descent: A 90 foot rappel will take you to the ground or set up a short second rappel from one of the mammoth eye bolts, if you only have one rope.
Variation 1a 5.6
Climb the corner left of route 1. A couple stoppers and medium cams will make this a safer route up the bird. The routes join at the first eye bolt.
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