OverviewThe most classical climb to Campanil Basso together with Preuss (east wall) and Graffer (SW edge)
Wonderful rock, technical climb, constant difficulties, only the first metres are of III (UIAA), all the remaining is IV or IV+ (with 1 or 2 passes of V)
Approachfrom rif. Brentei :
go southward along the "Bocca di Brenta" route
when you are under the west wall of the west shoulder of Campanil Basso follow a small track on the left toward the "canalone")
from rif. Pedrotti :
cross the "Bocca di Brenta" and go down the rock bars till you reach the more confortable (!!! :) way to cross the big quantity of small, moving stones till the dihedral.
Route Descriptionattach some metres on the upper right of the SW edge (via Graffer)
Follow the dihedral except (about middle of the way) a cross to the right.
Go back into the dihedral with the key passage of the route
("fetta di arancio").
Go on straight till the West shoulder.
-- If this section is wet just :
cross some metres to the right and go on straight in open wall till you see the West Shoulder
and (delicate and difficult - V) cross back to reach it.
From the West Shoulder you can reach the top in 3 different ways :
- last section of normal route (the easiest)
- via Pooli-Trenti (from terrazzino Garbari, 35m - V+)
- follow the Stradone Provinciale till the east face and reach the top using the via Preuss (the best choice)
Essential Gearessential - ropes, some carabiniers ... nothing else ...
Miscellaneous InfoONLY if you're a fast and experienced climber and if weather is very good
(Brenta' afternoon usually become raining)
the best way to amuse is an "afternoon climb" :
get the start at 2pm
(the route takes 3-4 hours and 2 hours for the descent)
and amuse the wonderful rock warmed by the sun.