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Campanile Basso - Preuss route
Route

Campanile Basso - Preuss route

 
Campanile Basso - Preuss route

Page Type: Route

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.16380°N / 10.89280°E

Object Title: Campanile Basso - Preuss route

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: IV+ 1 pass of V

Number of Pitches: 5

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 10 Votes
 

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Dec 10, 2003 / May 30, 2010

Object ID: 159584

Hits: 5394 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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General Info

the finest short classic climb in the whole range !
Better to do it in the morning, with sun warming the rock and your back while climbing :)

Short (4 or 5 short pitches) very exposed, vertical climb, fantastic rock

Often climbed to get the summit after climbing the Fehrmann (SW dihedral)
Joining the 2 routes you can make a climb of about 500 m with constant difficulties


Approach

rif. Brentei or rif. Pedrotti

Route Description

- same way as normal till the "stradone provinciale"
- better reach it through the "camino Scotoni" (4+)



then attach at the centre of the wall and go straight till the top
logical to find
wonderful to climb
very amusing
not for beginners

The route starts from the middle big ledge (stradone provinciale) of Campanile Basso just where the left chimney of the normal route gets it.

The route is very easy to find but, remember, you must always climb in the centre of the wall.
Second pitch starts with a small overhang, climb it, don't cross to the right otherwise you will get (with a very difficult climb) the NE edge (Graffer) ... I did it and coming back was not so fine :)

Campanil Basso - Preuss route
 
Campanil Basso - Preuss route
 
Campanil Basso - Preuss route
 
Campanil Basso - Preuss route
 

Essential Gear

a good rope : when I climbed it there were 2 pegs, but can be not used :)

Images

The Preuss Route on the GugliaCampanil Basso - Preuss routeCampanile Basso - E wallCampanil Basso - Preuss routecamino Scotoni and via Preuss...Campanil Basso - Preuss routeCampanil Basso - Preuss route
Campanil Basso - Preuss routeCampanil Basso - Preuss route