Campanile Livia - Valeria route

Overview

Valeria route climbs Campanile Livia west face. Campanile Livia (dedicated to Livia Gerbrecht, fallen on Corno Grande Vetta Centrale in 1943), with Punta dei Due, belongs to the so called Fiamme di Pietra (Stone Flames), a block of towers and pinnacles placed on the jagged south ridge of Corno Piccolo. Campanile Livia overlooks Vallone dei Ginepri, in the near of Sella dei Due Corni, showing its awesome south face.

Valeria route climbs the west face on excellent rock: it's a quite easy route, often climbed by beginners and climbing-courses.

It was first climbed by Andrea and Carlo Bafile with Valeria Boschero in 1946.

Difficulty: III-IV with some passages of IV+ UIAA
Lenght: 140m, 4 pitches
Altitude: 2480m-2580m
Rock quality: Excellent

Best season to climb: since early july to early october

Approach, Route description and Descent

Approach

From Madonnina, nearby the arrival of the Prati di Tivo chairlift (2012m), climb up the trail nr. 3 towards Passo delle Scalette and Franchetti Hut. Reach Franchetti hut (2475m, 1h), then take the trail leading to Sella dei Due Corni pass (2547m, 15min) and walk down in the Vallone dei Ginepri. When you meet on your right the start of the Via Ferrata Danesi, follow it for few meters, until you reach the first little notch, under a dihedral-ramp climbing toward right (there's an old peg at 3/4m). Here start the route (1h 30min from the chairlift arrival).

When the chairlift is closed (or if you want to start before it starts its runs), from Prati di Tivo main square you can drive until Sella di Cima Alta, following a route on the left (3,5Km from the square): from there (1650m), walk the trail rising up the wide and scenic Arapietra ridge, until you reach the chairlift arrival (about 1h)


Route description

Valeria route is a beautiful and quite easy climb: it's characterized by a zig-zagging crack, quite wide, protectable only with medium and big size friends. For the guide "Gran Sasso d'Italia" the grade of this crack is IV-... But I think that for beginners, not used to this kind of climbing style, the difficulty is harder (in my opinion at least IV+)

Belays are all equipped, except the second one. Consider the possible need of integrate the belay with further gears.

Pitch 1: climb up the ramp/dihedral (III+, a broken peg) for about 10m, then pass by easier rocks, bearing toward left, until you come on a wide terrace, in front of the zig-zagging crack of the 2nd pitch. Belay on a big stone (50m, III+)

Pitch 2: climb up the crack (IV+, 1 peg), then bear slightly on the right until you arrive on a wide terrace: reach the left edge of the terrace and make belay under a chimney climbing toward right (45m, IV+)

Pitch 3: start climbing the chimney (15m, IV-, 1 peg) until you exit from it: climb up the slab on your left (7m, IV+) then, on easier terrain, traverse on the left until the notch between Campanile Livia and Punta dei Due. Ready belay on tunnel (50m, IV/IV+)

Pitch 4: from the belay, climb up directly (5m III+) then follow a ledge to a bolts and chain belay, few meter above the summit (20m, III+)


Descent

From the last belay you can make a first rappel of about 10/20m to another anchor. From there, with one rappel of 60m (or two of 30m) you can reach the gravels at the feet of Campanile Livia south side, on the path leading to Sella dei Due Corni saddle.

As alternative, you can climb down the couloir between Campanile Livia and Punta dei Due (where it's placed the belay #3) to the base of south side of Campanile Livia (I+, 30min)

From the base of Campanile Livia to the chairlift arrival, it takes about 1h 15min (15min to Sella dei Due Corni + 15min to Franchetti hut + 45min to the chairlift arrival)

Essential Gear

Helmet

Some slings and cords

some friends medium-big size, the only way to protect the zig-zagging crack!

some pitons and nuts

two 60m ropes are advised

Guides, Maps, External Links

Best guides:
L. Grazzini, P. Abbate, “Gran Sasso d’Italia”, Cai-Tci, 1992
S. Ardito, “A piedi sul Gran Sasso”, Iter, 1992
S. Ardito, “A Piedi in Abruzzo” vol. 1, Iter, 1996
A. Alesi, M. Calibani, A. Palermi, “Gran Sasso – Le più belle escursioni”, SER, 1996

Best map:
“Gran Sasso d’Italia. La carta dei sentieri”, edited by Cai-L’Aquila (scale 1:25.000)

Other route descriptions (in italian):
Appenninik.com
Cai Firenze
Camp to Camp
Mountain Evolution (gallery)


Weather conditions:
Meteo bulletin Meteomont: Abruzian Apennines


Webcam:
Corno Piccolo north side from Prati di Tivo (on the right, Prima Spalla NE face)

Images

View Campanile Livia - Valeria route Image Gallery - 3 Images