Cap Rock, Northside, 5.2-5.11b

Overview/Approach

(Photo Above:  Lil' Squirt, Horror-Zontal Terror-Verse and Circus Circus)

Cap Rock is located just one road west of the Ryan Campground in Joshua Tree. Catch a Falling Star, 5.8**, is a popular 5.8 traverse crack located in the middle (east side) of three large rocks that make up the Cap Rock destination. The main formation is a dome that sits at the south end overlooking the parking area and serves as the namesake for the area.  It is a large enough formation with many developed routes that we consider it two separate destinations:  the south side and north side.  Obviously the north side routes offer ample shade most of the day.  The most popular routes on the north side start at the left side (NE face) with plenty of morning sunshine.  They are named False Layback, 5.4*, and False Prophet, 5.9*.  These two routes with other east facing routes (south side page) to the left are common group guided destinations (gang bang top ropes).  However, the true north face, which is higher up on the formation and removed from this east wall, often allows total privacy via some underappreciated crack climbs, specifically, Circus Circus, 5.9*, and Horror-Zontal Terror-Verse, 5.10b*.  These are both stellar trad climbs at their respective grade.

Cap Rock is divided up in the local guide as north and south side as well as a parking lot area section although it should really just be thought of as south and north and thus dependent on temperature as to which side you climb. Continue 1.7 miles along Park Blvd east of Intersection Rock to Keys View Road. Turn right (south) and pull into the paved parking area on your left. Circumvent the formation to the right side coming to the obvious tall flake/corner that is False Layback.  You can reach Lil’ Squirt, 5.9, by climbing False Prophet, 5.9*, which finishes on False Layback midway up the formation, making for a link up of two 5.9 routes.  You can then walk over and rap from the summit above Horror-Zontal Terror-Verse and set up to lead it or move right to climb Circus Circus, yet another worthy 5.9 lead.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the North Wall, NE Face to NW Corner

Event Horizon- 80’-5.10bR*/

Retirement- 80’-5.10a/

Nutcracker- 80’-5.3R*/

Space Odyssey- 80’-5.10b*/

Bush Eviction- 80’-5.9/ A better route than False Layback, up the natural arête with intermittent cracks in it.  Great varnished rock.   Single rack.  Dow

False Layback- 80’-5.4*/ A guided route in the corner that can be mobbed by groups if you are not on it early.   A secure solo up fantastic rock with perfect fingers on top to round out the finish.  Small gear belay.  Walk (scramble) off either side.   Dow

False Prophet- 80’-5.9*/ The intended crux is stout for the grade at Jtree.  Traverse the finger under cling out left to the crux slab moves that eventually tie into False Layback.  You can traverse directly from the under cling flake left to False Layback, but I believe the intent is to tackle the tough slab (for the grade) above.  Small gear.  Dow

Lil’ Squirt- 25’-5.9/ Nasty short route that reaches the summit of the formation with a fixed rap located above the Ayatoliah.  It climbs through a paper thin hollow flake to reach the first bolt.  Crux move at the grade traversing up and left to make the 2nd clip.  Belay off the fixed rap for Ayatoliah.  Dow

The Ayatollah- 40’-5.11b*/

Horror-Zontal Terror-Verse- 60’-5.10b*/

Circus Circus- 50’-5.9*/ This is an underrated route.  Take the unique slanting and down sloping corner (arcing dihedral), right to left, with great gear up to where it ends.  At that point place a micro cam or wire and make a PG13 move up to jugs followed by a physical mantle to the summit shoulder.  The PG13 move is due to there being a wall below you on the climb at this point that slopes back out, meaning you would more than likely hit hard on your back and head if you fell.  Not for someone leading this grade at their limit.  Single rack, small stuff.  Rap Ayatoliah.  Dow

Circus- 50’-5.2*/ An easy and secure solo.  Low angled hand  crack.  As good of a route and rock as False Layback.  Rap Ayatoliah.  Dow