Planet X Spire, 5.8-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Planet X Spire is a lone climbing feature surrounded by bouldering problems.  It is located between Rock of Horrors and Cap Rock, both popular Joshua Tree destinations.  This feature does not offer much and I only climbed here in my attempt to complete 2000 climbs in the park.  It did not get my attention during the first 1000.  That being said, if you are bouldering in the area, you might find it of interest to climb on this short tower.

Planet Y, 5.10a*, offers a decent, but short, crack on the south face.  The crux is the slab climbing through a singular bolt near the top.  Several on MP.com seemed to think the final move was more difficult than 5.10a whereas I thought it was closer to a Jtree 5.9 rating.  I am going to chalk that up to the fact that most of the climbing on this spire is probably done by boulderers.   Saturn Sheets, 5.9R, is a poorly bolted slab climb to the right of Planet Y.  There are only two bolts protecting 40’.  Off the deck is insecure slab until you reach the first clip.  The crux is shortly after that.  Planet X, 5.8*, is a great teaching crack on the east face.  Its crack runs from bottom to top and gives the budding trad leader plenty of opportunity to place gear. If it were in a more popular location, it would probably receive another star in the local guide, despite being short.  There is a shared rap anchor on top of the spire. You can set up a gear belay/TR on the route Planet X. 

Park either at Cap Rock or Hall of Horrors.  If at Hall of Horrors, head due west finding a wash that leads to the Planet X bouldering area.  The Hang is a significant rock, tall and interesting enough for climbing routes, but few if any established in 2023.  It is a long obvious feature.  Turn left in front of it as you continue south along a trail to the spire.  From Hall of Horrors parking, maybe 15-20 minutes.  From Cap Rock parking, just follow the signs east, maybe not even 10 minutes.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Face

Planet Y- 40’-5.10a*/ I did not feel the 5.10a on this route.  Climb the obvious crack on the south face of Planet Spire.  Great gear until the end when the crack peters out.  Clip a bolt and make slab/face moves straight up to the summit of the spire and a fixed rap.  No real crux, but solid movement in the 5.9 range from bottom to top.  A short fun traverse-in from the right to start with a physical mantel on a huge hold below grade.  Single to #.75.  MP.com references single to #3 and the guide says standard rack, but this is a short straight forward route for a few finger pieces and a draw.  Route gets all day sun.  Dow

Saturn Sheets- 40’-5.9R/ MP.com rates it 5.9 and the local guide 5.8.  For some reason the FA shorted this all slab/face climb with bolts (2).  Why bolt it at all?  It appears everyone is just top roping it.  It is relatively sustained at the grade and would be an insecure solo on grainy slab.  In any regard, mantle the boulder to the right of Planet Y.  Start climbing slab through one bolt.  The crux, full on for the grade, is traversing right to the arete to climb through a 2^nd bolt.  Can establish a directional through Planet Y’s fixed rap for TR and of course just rap Planet Y when done.  2 draws.  Route gets all day sun.  Dow

Planet X- 40’-5.8*/ If this fine varnished crack was taller, it would be a five-star route for the grade.  Excellent lead for the budding trad leader.  Great gear in a well varnished crack with plenty of features. Starts above a small cactus (2023).  It peters out to a bolt and then finishes on a short crack to the left to the summit.  Mellow route, but if there is a crux, it would be off the deck.  Medium gear belay backed up by slinging a plated rock.  Can rap Planet Y when finished.  Single rack to #3.  Route gets morning sun.  Dow

Planet Z- 5.10d/

Subway to Venus- 5.11c*/

Planet Claire- 5.10d*/