Castle Corner, 5.10-, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Castle Corner is no doubt the most classic 5.10- route in South Platte.  Its 2nd pitch offers an arcing dihedral that is second to none for the grade in south central CO.  You start out climbing twin cracks on the 2nd pitch and end the pitch via a steep and pumpy layback (crux of the route).  The 1st pitch offers a friendly and fun flake/corner climb to a comfortable belay (the infamous poison ivy ledge, with the ivy being rather benign in June, 2022).  The 3rd pitch has two options.  The right variation offered a solid corner climb with varying gear and technique.  Near the top of the route, you get a solid, but short, off-width section similar to the top of the Throne Room.

MP.com labels the route 5.10, the Fixed Pin guide labels it 5.10a.

This corner is easily found on approach.  There is a ton of conversation on MP.com regarding the approach to The Castle.  Ignore it.  It is very simple.  The approach is on private land, a for-profit campground.  There is no kiosk to drive through, but the signs make it clear they will hunt you down if you don’t.  In 2022, it is $14 per person.  A criminal mind would only pay $14 and say one person is with the vehicle.  The office is not open as early as most climbers would want to get a start.  You deposit your CC information or cash into a drop box and put your car tag on your dash.  Drive around the north side of the lake and continue as it bends south to a dead end at the Boy Scout group camp.  There is ample day parking there.  Start hiking the Waterfall trail, from the parking area, which gains a drainage in short order.  Follow a well-established, pleasant and shaded trail up the drainage to the southwest corner of the Castle.  There are two climber’s trails that veer right towards the base of the wall.  One lower and one right on the ridgeline.  Either will take you to the base of the route.  The corner is quite obvious (see photo).  It is on the left side wall of the Castle.  There is a tower formation leaning against the wall to the right named Parapet, where several more popular routes are located including the Throne Room.  The wall you are standing below has one very obvious corner from bottom to top that arcs leftward on its 2^nd pitch.  The first pitch involves a large flake left of the corner, that you can stem between to get started.

The approach is mellow unless you are a sport climber and/or live in Boulder or Salt Lake.  Approximately 1800’ gain on a pristine trail.

Route Description

1st Pitch- 110’- 5.9+/ Start up the flake, start stemming between it and the corner, eventually commit back to the flake and then back to the corner to finish.  When you reach an under cling on the flake, you could dyno to a slot in the flake directly above or protect in the under cling and stem down and traverse back right to the corner to finish.  Mostly a decent hands pitch.  The Fixed Pin guide has it at 130’, but from where we comfortably belayed it was 110’.  Belay on a comfortable flake ledge in medium gear on a crack out left.  This is the infamous poison ivy “ledge”.  In June, 2022, it was not bad. 

2nd Pitch- 115’-5.10-/ An excellent pitch at the grade and one of the finest in South Platte.  Start up a wide (#4) crack that leads to twin cracks eventually committing to the right one.  Steep ground leads to the crux of the route, a layback with a move or two on tips with no pro to a comfortable ledge. 

3rd Pitch- 125’- 5.10-/ Take your choice of a left or right-hand crack.  The right version offers more variety from fingers to hands.  Traverse up and right and follow the sharp granite crack as it arches back left and meets the left version.  From there, cover easy ground to the 2nd crux of the route, an off-width looking small roof pull.  In reality, most will be able reach for hand jams deep in but the feet are awkward.  Belay atop a shoulder below the summit. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Descend north (left) down to the forested col.  Scramble down west through a gully with plenty of fifth class moves.  There is a slung tree with solid tat that can be used as a final rap to the ground but you can 5th class it down skiers left (if competent), never necessitating a rap on descent.

Essential Gear

The gear call on MP.com (2022) is excessive.  Doubles from #.5 through #3 plus a #4 and a few wires is plenty for no longer than any of these pitches are and is essentially what the Fixed Pin guide suggests.  Southeast facing.  Haul approach shoes up the route.  60m rope.