OverviewThis route approaches the peak from Wellington Lake, but instead climbs the less seen west face. It can provide a fun and exciting alternative to the standard route. I climbed it by accident the first time, not knowing there was an easier route. It is easily doable if you have climbing knowledge and aren't afraid of exposure
NOTE: There are currently no pictures of this route, but some should come as soon as I take some. I thought there would already be some here so I didn't take any.
Getting ThereDrive to Wellington Lake. There is a slight fee to use the area, but it is the only way to legally acces the peak. I can't condone trespassing, but we did use the site illegaly when climbing (no fee, we just crossed a fence). The people at Wellington Lake will find you though, or at least your car.
Once there, climb up to the peak. At the base of the rock "Keep" traverse around the west side of the block. You should now be standing underneath the west face, looking up at about two hundred feet of near vertical granite. To the west is a garden of pillars and rock. This is where the fun begins.
Route DescriptionThere is one distinct crack that runs up the west face, this is the route. It is about a foot wide, and looks climbable. It is approximately the third crack on the right(south) from where the face really starts. The others are climbable, just with a lot more effort. There is also a very large gully/crack system about 50 feet right(south) of this one in between the actual summit and another summit. Locating this crack is fairly easy. It is wide, and pretty obvious as you look at the face.
There are a number of ledges that feed into this crack. Traverse these in from the right or climb up the crack directly. Either way the climbing is fairly easy class 3 to 4 until about 15 feet from the top. Then the crack narrows and becomes steeper. Climb the crack until it ends, and then manage to work your way onto a ledge on the left. Getting to this ledge is the hardest and most exposed move. It is some sketchy climbing, possibly low class five. After you make the ledge, head left about five to ten feet until there is a low point on the ridge. There is a convieniently placed rock that works like a stepping stone here. Step on this, grap the top of the ridge and pull yourself over. Now there is just a little bit of traversing needed to reach the summit.
Head south towards the summit. You will encounter a small gully/dip in the ridge. This is the final move. Climb up the other side (5.4 or easier if you are tall) and you are on top. Enjoy the view.
Essential GearNo gear is essential except shoes and some water.
If you are not comfortable on exposed terrain you might want to place some protection, although it is not neccessary.
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