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Uwe KrausRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 10th of January 1999  Sucess!

Uwe Kraus

1999 I visited Ecuador for the second time. Our intention was to climb Cayambe and Chimorazo. After we had climbed several mountains to acclimatise (among others Illiniza Norte and Imbabura) we started to climb Volcán Cayambe. Therefore we had hired a guide in Quito.



In my opinion Volcán Cayambe is one of the most beautiful mountains in Ecuador. It is a challenging climb in wonderful glacial scenery. However, the weather is mostly unpredictable there and one has to have much luck to summit. As we were told afterwards 13 groups of climbers tried to climb Volcán Cayambe before us that year and couldn’t summit because of bad weather. We were the first group in that season reaching the summit.



We reached the summit on 10th of January 1999.











The entire report and more information as well as pictures you will find at http://members.aol.com/UweKraus3/site18_e.htm



Posted Dec 27, 2005 7:59 am

climberbenRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 4 November 2000  Sucess!

climberben

We had clear weather and awesome snow coverage not very many crevasses to deal with! Left at midnight and were back at the refugio by 8am!
Posted Dec 26, 2005 4:52 am

YetiBauerRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Feburary 2005

YetiBauer

Storm Off at 18,000 ft! The hut was really sweet, I kept flushing the toilet to see which way the water would swirl since we were on the equator.
Posted Dec 8, 2005 9:42 pm

amcfarreRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Jan 24, 2005  Sucess!

amcfarre

Due to low visability from clouds we wandered too far left from the regular route and found ourselves at the base of a steep ice climb. With sunrise and clearing weather we backtracked and found the normal route and the intact snow bridge. Made the summit later than we'd planned and baked on the sunny glacier on our descent.



Photos and Trip Report
Posted Feb 14, 2005 11:18 am

bluescrummachineRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2005  Sucess!

bluescrummachine

Very well acclimatized after Chimborazo. Started at midnight and reached summit after 5:45 hours. Particulary difficult and many crevasses. Some snow/ice climbing at the summit. Icy wind and with increasing altitude we were covered with a mixture of ice and snow. But had much fun! All reached the summit.
Posted Jan 13, 2005 6:49 am

igor cazesRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: january, 15 1998
We just stopped a few meters below the summit due the infamous crevase which round cayambe's summit.

it was wide open and very dangerous to pass.

Great climb.Big, high and crevassed.
Posted Jul 15, 2004 8:58 pm

EngendradodelayucaRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Julio 2001

Engendradodelayuca

Tuvimos que volver por el clima, mucho viento.
Posted Apr 19, 2004 7:36 pm

Miguel Angel PerezRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Dec. 24, 2003

Miguel Angel Perez

Started at 12:00 am from the Hut with a lot of strong winds. Glacier and snow conditions were not good. Lot of creveases dangerously hidden.



Turned arround at 6:00 am due to the terrible weather conditions and hypothermia of some partners.
Posted Feb 14, 2004 9:12 am

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 5, 2004  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

Left the hut in light snow and clouds, but luckily, things cleared up and we had very good conditions all the way to the summit. Since no one had been to the summit in a few weeks, there was no track, but routefinding was pretty straightforward thanks to a full moon. There were lots of hidden crevasses on the lower glacier (near Pico Jarrin) and we punched through several times. The upper glacier was heavily crevassed and required some routefinding. The last slopes below the summit were steep (50m of 55 degrees) and there was a HUGE crevasse just below the summit. I tried to climb through directly (20m of 90 degrees), but the ice was poor and the climbing awkward, so I backed down and we decided to traverse left to pass the crevasse/ice wall. After traversing about 100m on 55 degree slopes, we were able to climb past the crevasse (3m of 60 degrees) and on to the summit.
Posted Jan 7, 2004 1:46 pm

Jerry LDate Climbed: February 21, 2003

Jerry L

My son and I woke up in the early morning with a terrible stomach virus. We immediately descended and headed straight for Otovalo where we laid in a hotel room for (36) hours, sick as could be.
Posted Mar 6, 2003 4:45 am

miztflipRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 02/11/03  Sucess!

miztflip

The conditions are getting worse and worse due to the erupting neighbor Reventador. The mountian is covered in ash and is all ice. Our lead rope member blew a bridge and took a long fall. After getting high on the mountain and only gaining 10 feet for every 100 feet traveled due to crevasses, be bagged the climb at aroung 18,000.
Posted Feb 25, 2003 9:14 am

tonybell1Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 13, 2003  Sucess!

tonybell1

Horrible snow conditions. The mountain was covered by debris from a volcanic eruption nearby (not Cayambe) and there had been no recent snow. We crossed many crevasses and there were innumerable penatentes up high.
Posted Feb 24, 2003 7:00 pm

gatoRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: March 2002  Sucess!

gato

A spectacular and technical route, with huge crevasses and awe-inspiring glaciers. Ecuador is a wonderful place for climbing volcanoes. We did smell sulfur on the route, indicating at least a little volcanic activity.
Posted Mar 19, 2002 1:40 pm

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2000  Sucess!

mdostby

One of the most awesome climbs I have ever done. Ecuador is one of the most beautiful countries I've climbed in.
Posted Mar 28, 2001 9:02 pm

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