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5703 Hits
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74.01% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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39.42240°N / 105.256°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock TRAD |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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***5.9+ |
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Approach
From the parking lot, most folks I know tend to break the main trail to gain access to the base of this climb., and scramble to the base of the climb
There is a trail (if looking directly at Cynical Pinnacle from the parking lot it will be directly left of you, climb up the washout and turn left, you will see the trail from here)
The approach is about a 30 minute hike to the base and is very strenuous, be certain to bring plenty of water this area is very desert like, and the sun will beat down on you most all day.
Route Description
Do NOT Rappel The Face!!! Ropes are VERY prone to becoming stuck here!!!!
- From the base (Ground Level) climb up the Inward Dihedral, -5.9 climbing with 2-4" pro and a couple #8 nuts help here.
- Start the Center Route With a finger to hands Crack , very comfortable .8 to .7 climbing approx 80' up the Crack system there are a few sections that can be interesting but quality of rock is generally outstanding!. @ 150' there are anchors on your right.
- Starts your 5.9 climbing, When my partner and I climbed this section we had very high winds so we used a TON of gear to keep our sanity. on a clear calm day 8-10 #2-#4 sized pro should be sufficient..
Keep with the right angle crack and keep right of the overhang and work your way into the dihedral (1 bolt)
Once in the Dihedral you gain very comfortable .8+ climbing a bit off width to anchors.
Pitch #1
Pitch #2
Pitch #3
From here you can Rap down over the north side of the Spire or you can continue to do the added 5.11b final Sport Pitch with 7 bolts to anchors to gain the Pinnacle "Summit"
The views from the top here are spectacular!!!!! you can see Stone Outcroppings that will amaze you and make you want to visit this area time and time again. Most everyone I've spoken with (myself included) have spent over a decade climbing here. you will too
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Essential Gear
- 2"- 4" Cams (Full Rack)
- Long Slings
- Quick Draws (Full rack)
- PLENTY OF WATER!
Did I Forget Something????
If I have made a mistake or have forgotten something please let me know and I will gladly correct in a timely manner
Red Flag
This Area Is Closed March 1 Through July 31
If you are caught up here during these times it can be up to $100,000 Dollar fine and up to 5 Years in prison
Food for thought eh?