OverviewThe classic route on the Maly Ladovy Stit (Lodowa Kopa) south face. First time climbed by J.Andráši, J.Petrlová and A.Puškáš, 15.9.1948, winter by J. Červinka, F. Pašta, 14.4.1956. The story of reaching the face was theme of a film - 'Cesta k Slnku' directed in 1948 by Karol Skřipski.
Cesta k Slnku could be a nice warm up before climbing harder targets in the area (ex. neighbour Lomica west face). It's a great chance to meet with High Tatra granite on medium long -in comparison to another walls (about 250m), well protected, beautiful situated route with low rock difficulty, by many teams connected with climbing the ridge to Ladovy Stit.
Getting ThereTeryho Chata(2015) – Modre Pleso(2157 - under the feet of south face)
Green marks ,1,5 km ,45min, leading on the Sedielko.
You could start also from Smokovce, about 2h30min of approach.
Route DescriptionThe begin is quiet evident - the crack system on left side of the pillar (which is situated on the right from the great chimney).
During most of the route we try a friction climbing in easy terrain, the crux we could find in higher part of the route - this is a good holding crack escaping to the left, the only one place graded as V.
Decent is complicated, because the massif is branched out, attention especially in the fog (Galfy). We turn left after the last pitch, traverse the ridge in easy (I) terrain till reaching by the gully the summit of Maly Ladovy. Looking at the cairns you'll find the patch to Sedielko.
Topo by: tatry.nfo.sk
Essential GearRoute has got a ready stances - two bolts per each, prepared in 2000 by V.Tatarka.
-double 50m rope (strong rope friction cause the lack of vertical terrain).
-a few loops
External Linkstatry.nfo - the biggest source of Slovakian Tatras climbing knowledge
And a short, not very exciting movie from youtube...
Private experienceWe have done the route in one day approaching from Horny Smokoviec, with a few rain showers from time to time, so I think that the route is attainable even in unpleasant conditions and with a short autumn day. This was the first multi-pitch climb in Tatras for my friend, anyway he did it toproped without bigger problems and I hope that he has got a great memory. For me some slabs in the middle were harder than the crux crack, but maybe I've made some route finding mistakes. Very recommendable and enjoyable climb.
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