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915 Hits
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74.01% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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39.55653°N / 111.67113°W |
Route Type:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.4 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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5.4 |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Overview
Changing the Stripes is the namesake route of Changing the Stripes Buttress, which presently has only two established routes.
The FAists, Jason Stevens and Virgil Ash, gave the route a 5.4 rating. At times, the consensus grade on the Mountain Project page was 5.5, but it is 5.4 again right now. Although I gave a suggested grade of 5.2, I'm listing this as 5.4 out of respect to the FAists' judgment. However, be aware that suggested grades on MP range from 5.0 to 5.6.
All that said, I think this route is a lot of fun and worth doing no matter your ability level. Bolt spacing is pretty close, making it friendly to new multi-pitch leaders, and all anchors are bolted. Plus, you get to a summit, and this was a nice way to sneak in a climb at the end of a hot summer day in Utah.
Getting There
These directions are for those exiting I-15 at Nephi; this is not the only way to get to Maple Canyon.
Use Exit 225 and drive east through town and out on Route 132, headed for Fountain Green; you will pass the southern end of the Nebo Scenic Byway not long after leaving town.
Take a right onto 400 South and then drive about six miles to Freedom Road, where you again turn right.Son make another right, this time onto a road signed for Maple Canyon. The road turns to dirt as it enters the canyon, but it is passable for most cars.
Heart Rock is about half a mile from the mouth of the canyon, on the right (north) side of the road. Due to its huge overhanging arete, it is very easy to distinguish. Look for an obvious pullout that also serves as a camping spot. If it is occupied, find the next-closest unoccupied pullout.
Changing the Stripes Buttress is just left of Heart Rock.
Find a climber's trail that will take you to the base. This is easy to do.
Route Description
P1-- Climb the face left of a crack. 6 bolts (first was loose in July 2020, and I mean the bolt, not the hanger), bolted anchors.
P2-- Climb an arete. 7 bolts, bolted anchors.
P3-- Continue up the arete to a ledge. Go across the ledge (recommended to use long slings here) and go up a ramp and through a slot to reach the summit. 8 bolts, bolted anchors.
Descent-- Rappel each pitch. With a 70, we rapped P3 and then combined P2 and P1.
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Essential Gear
8 draws plus whatever you like for bolted anchors. Also, whatever you prefer for multi-pitch raps. At least a 60m rope.