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3694 Hits
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76.66% Score
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7 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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39.55600°N / 111.671°W |
Activities:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
Elevation:
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6593 ft / 2010 m |
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Overview
Although Maple Canyon is primarily known as a mecca for single-pitch sport climbing on conglomerate, there are some multi-pitch routes, and Tachycardia on Heart Rock is one of the best.
Since there currently is just one established route on Heart Rock and two on Changing the Stripes Buttress and the formations are literally a few feet from each other, this page will serve as a source for both crags, but there will be separate route pages.
Heart Rock is an easily identifiable feature off to the right shortly into Maple Canyon, and it is next to Changing the Stripes Buttress, where there is a multi-pitch 5.4 route, so this is a great place to spend a day, or maybe half a day since it can take as little as 1-2 hours to climb and rappel each route.
In July 2018, on my last day in Utah near the end of a month-long trip that saw me get on a rope in five Western states for trad, sport, and alpine routes, I got to rope-solo Tachycardia, and it was a blast. In July 2020, I returned with my son to climb the multis on each formation. Despite being easy, they were still a blast.
Getting There
These directions are for those exiting I-15 at Nephi; this is not the only way to get to Maple Canyon.
Use Exit 225 and drive east through town and out on Route 132, headed for Fountain Green; you will pass the southern end of the Nebo Scenic Byway not long after leaving town.
Take a right onto 400 South and then drive about six miles to Freedom Road, where you again turn right.Son make another right, this time onto a road signed for Maple Canyon. The road turns to dirt as it enters the canyon, but it is passable for most cars.
Heart Rock is about half a mile from the mouth of the canyon, on the right (north) side of the road. Due to its huge overhanging arete, it is very easy to distinguish. Look for an obvious pullout that also serves as a camping spot. If it is occupied, find the next-closest unoccupied pullout.
Changing the Stripes Buttress is just left of Heart Rock.
Red Tape: $5 entry fee, self-pay.
Follow posted regulations, of course.
When to Climb
Spring through fall is the best time.
Camping
I understand there is a campground, but I did not drive far enough into the canyon to find anything out about it. There is dispersed camping, but watch out for parcels of private property.
The MP page for Maple Canyon has some camping information.
2 Routes