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Chernobyl Wall Climbs
Route

Chernobyl Wall Climbs

 
Chernobyl Wall Climbs

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.80800°N / 118.595°W

Object Title: Chernobyl Wall Climbs

Route Type: technical rock

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: II, 5.10a to III 5.11

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: Oct 7, 2002 / Oct 19, 2009

Object ID: 157090

Hits: 2445 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

From the day use parking lot below North Dome, hike up talus and forested slopes to the base of the Dome. Allow 30 - 45 minutes.

Route Description

There are ( to the authors knowledge ) six excellent free climbs on the lower part of North Dome. The following climbs are found on the highly polished apron below the large Roman Arch. From left to right they are -

Enchanted Pork Fist - II, 5.10a. 2 pitches of face and crack climbing. Gear - 2 R.P.'s, 6 stoppers ( medium - large ), Friends to 4"

Rainbow Warrior - III, 5.11a. 4 pitches of face and crack climbing take one to the top of the Roman Arch. Small - medium stoppers and Friends.

Jerks On A Joyride - II, 5.10b. 2 pitches of face climbing lead to the last pitch of Pork Fist. 2 R.P's.

Sub Texas Love - II, 5.11a. 1 1/2 pitches of difficult face climbing end in nowhere.

Split Lips & Broken Bits - II, 5.10a. A fun lieback crack followed by friction and face climbing. 6 small - medium stoppers, Friends # 1 - 4.

Kibbles & Bits - II, 5.10a. 2 pitches of crack and face climbing. 2 small stoppers, Friends # 1 - 4. Belay bolts and all but one protection bolt replaced with Fixe 3/8" bolts Oct. 17th, 2009 ( 1st pitch only ).

Essential Gear

All climbs require two 165' ropes for rappels. To the above mentioned gear, all routes require quick draws or carabiners and slings, of course.

See topo for more detailed route description.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Jen H. climbs "Split Lips and Broken Bits"Jen H. Climbs, Craig P. DrillsCraig Rappels at SunsetLooking Down on Craig L. and ValleyCraig L. Belays at BaseChernobyl Wall topo.<br />
Drawn...Pitch 1 on the 1st ascent of...
North Dome ( Kings Canyon )...Pitch 1 of " Jerks On A...On the 1st ascent of "Jerks...Pitch 2 of Split Lips &...Pitch 1 on the 1st ascent of...Looking down the first pitch...