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My Own Private Idaho

My Own Private Idaho


Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.80800°N / 118.595°W

Object Title: My Own Private Idaho

Route Type: Big Wall

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: V, 5.10, A2

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: Jun 1, 2005 / Jun 2, 2005

Object ID: 165286

Hits: 1634 

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From the day use parking lot directly below North Dome, hike up talus and forested slopes to the Dome. Allow about 30 - 45 minutes.

Route Description

This route climbs the wall between Freak Show and North To The Bone.
Climb the large right facing dihedral on the apron to gain the base of the main wall. The line then goes up a black streak to a small ledge with a flake, where it follows superb cracks up and right to a long ledge. The rest of the climb has mixed aid and face climbing.

From the 2000 American Alpine Journal, page 169.

First ascent by Brandon Thau, Matt and Jennifer Pollard June 21 - 23, 2000.

Essential Gear

Rack - 1 Beak, 2 Knife Blades, 2 Lost Arrows, 1 set nuts, 3 sets TCU's, 3 sets Camalots # 1 - 3, 2 each # 4, 1 - #5, all hooks including 2 bat hooks, 2 each copperheads # 2 and 3, 200' ropes, helmets.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


My Own Private Idaho